Page 1 of 1
Front brake master cyl. What size circlip pliers ?
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:20 pm
Author: timyoungman
I have a few front brake master cylinders to overhaul but what size/type of circlip pliers do I need ?? There isn't much space down there!
Recommendations and where to buy info appreciated
Thanks.
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:04 pm
Author: wheelysteve
I managed to break off one of the eyes at the end of the cir clip so be careful.
There is a lot of spring pressure to release while your face is looking straight at the piston waiting to escape when the cir clip is released
Anyone know how to get the circlip out with one end missing?
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:23 pm
Author: Steve Cooke
I bought a pair of Meister pliers from Makro which are good for the job, they're about 20mm when fully open and the prongs are 35mm long, round and about 2mm at the point.
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:38 pm
Author: Serps
These look like they will do the job
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog ... nners.html
Bottom of the page
circlip pliers
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:39 pm
Author: walshyco
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog/info_L4739.html
These are the best tool for the job. Worth every penny.
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:45 am
Author: RB
Just bust it out, it's included in the new kit
Personally, i'd probably just buy a repro complete M/Cyl for the same price . . . . unless I was doing an over the top restoration
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:50 am
Author: wheelysteve
I'm seeing if I can rescue this original Tokico master cyl to replace the repro one on the bike. Trying to get it to bits to see what condition the bore is in.
Can they be over bored to 5/8th size and still be used on a single disc set up?
If so, any recommendations for the work?
Thanks, Steve
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:28 am
Author: Richard Q
wheelysteve wrote:I'm seeing if I can rescue this original Tokico master cyl to replace the repro one on the bike. Trying to get it to bits to see what condition the bore is in.
Can they be over bored to 5/8th size and still be used on a single disc set up?
If so, any recommendations for the work?
Thanks, Steve
I had a problem with a brake cylinder on a car, actually part of a remote servo. I managed to get it apart but the bore was pitted, so unusable. I had it bored out then had a stainless steel liner fitted. Our car club has this done, so I wouldn't be able to suggest a company to do it, but may well worth a look around.
Richard
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:24 pm
Author: Steve Cooke
wheelysteve wrote:I'm seeing if I can rescue this original Tokico master cyl to replace the repro one on the bike. Trying to get it to bits to see what condition the bore is in.
Can they be over bored to 5/8th size and still be used on a single disc set up?
If so, any recommendations for the work?
Thanks, Steve
Yes they can be over bored to 5/8th and would still be usable on a single disc, any engineering shop should be able to do this, there is a bloke called Mark Hutton based near Liphook who was doing this refurb. I don't have his number but if you contact Guy the area rep. he may be able to tell you as I think he had his done, I would suggest that if Mark Hutton does the job it would be spot on.
You'll have to pull the broken circlip inwards by the remaining eye and get a flat blade screwdriver behind it as soon as there is a gap and pry it out that way.
One of the problems of using circlip pliers like the ones shown is that the point is very fine and would put pressure on a smaller area of the eye therefore more likely to snap it, if the actual jaw fits in the eye they would be great, that's why I use long nose pliers rather than circlip pliers, as for the first ones I use them when I go fishing.

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:52 pm
Author: wheelysteve
Thanks Steve,
I was using long nose pliers to try to get the circlip out when the eye snapped off. I'm a bit wary of the whole piston and spring firing out and hitting me in the face when trying to force it with a screwdriver etc !
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 1:45 pm
Author: Steve Cooke
The pliers I use have fully round jaws so you haven't got the sharp edge of the flat inside edge of the jaws of normal ones, but any half decent pliers like shown will do it, don't worry about the spring it's not under that much pressure.
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:15 pm
Author: timyoungman
Thanks for the replies and discussion...helpful stuff.

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 3:38 am
Author: Garn 1
I've had this problem for years, purchased numerous pairs. I've never been able to get the pair like they illustrate in the workshop manual, it has a pantograph type action that reaches further into the cylinder end.
I now just give them to a mate who uses a scriber and "presto" out comes the circlip. It is an art!
This process is not unlike the time I refused to remove an 8 mm headed bleed screw from a bike as I was sure it would break off. Another guy came along and removed it with ease. The trick was to tighten the screw first!
RegardZ.
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:58 am
Author: wheelysteve
In the end I used a scriber and small screwdriver along with a bit of force and the circlip came out ok. The piston is a bit corroded but the bore of the m/c looks unarmed so I'm hoping to rescue it as it is.
I believe these were anodised satin black originally (now an odd purply colour). Can they be re-anodised or is painting the way to go? Does the brake fluid not destroy and type of spray paint put on?
Cheers, Steve