Z1OwnersClub GB

Man i cant believe the problems i am having with ignition. one minute everything fine and starts on the push of a button or a kick.
Now it wont start. So frustrating .
Battery holding over 12v
Checked the timing and good.
Hard wired the coils to bypass the switch nothing.
I checked the volts at the joint where the yellow and orange cable splits off to the coils and it drops to 9v which i'm sure is wrong. if i disconnect the 2 leads from the connector the bolts go up.
Any ideas??

Ill check the battery again.
The throttle grip does not grip the handle bar tight and has a little play. could this be giving earth problems.
Yes starting the bike on choke and not taking for good run. not passed my test yet!!!!!!!
Plugs and caps are new
Fuel getting there and fresh.
What conditioner? cant use the wife's!

Volts drop is normal when devices such as coils powered,watch how your battery volts drop when you put your main beam on,though 9 volts is lowish suggests bad connection check kill switch..
Look at simple things first,if its an intermiitent fault could be a simple as bad earth or connection,are you starting the bike on choke and not taking for good run,plugs especially Ngk once fouled are fit for the bin,are you sure its electrical? fuel getting there and fresh,goes off super rapid now ,without conditioner...

Throttle grip loose will not cause bad earth unless you have a bad eatrth on the engine and it was using the throttle cables for earth,conditioner is fuel stabiliser you can ethanol proof ones on ebay,fuel goes off real quick these days,pull plugs and see if you are getting good blue spark on all four.If you have spark at right time and fuel plus good compression should fire up.Have been a lot of Ngk plugs failing at the mo.....

Paul J


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Safe-Gu ... 43d3b4f855

Everything Paul has sed above ! The point I was trying to make with the points question is if you a taking a reading with the points closed then at least one coil will be in circuit and possibly even two and this will show a voltage drop at the feed,also it will be active,the internal resistance will create heat and make it feel warm/hot dependant on how long its been powered

You can also check the spark condition by "flicking" the closed points with the corresponding plugs out of the heads and sitting on the fins in the leads at least ir will give you a clue as to wether you have a spark at the plugs

Ok there was a guy on you tube who explained how to test the coils. The primary side appears to be ok bt the secondary is dead!
May have solved the problem. Or have I?
Zpower do coil replacement from Far East. Don't have a problem with that but would like original OEM's if possible but I'm guessing there not made anymore.
Any thoughts before I start shelling out cash. Oh and realy do not want to change ignition.

they are no longer available they do come up on e bay but are big bucks. after market coils will do the job if you are running standard points & condensers

Ok great shall I stick with the zpower ones or are there other suppliers to be recommended?

i suppose z power are as good as anyone

Maybe consider fitting Dyna coils, a bit dearer but far superior.

Suzuki gs1000E coils are the same & you can still get them but they are £118 each

Wayne I got those coils from Z- Power and used them with Dyna electronic ignition on 2 bikes without a problem

I would be really surprised if both coils have gone tits at the same time,how are you checking them? you did say fault was intermittent with dead coils you would get nothing?its possible they are cooked by leaving ignition on though!

Hi guys thanks and I must admit I thought it strange they are both shot.
Checked them with a meter and got readings on the primary but nothing on the secondary.
Yes I did say intermittent but makes sense that I get this problem continuously.
A week ago fired up great.
In the week I replaced the cam ends and cover gasket along with the seals to the tacho none of which would cause this problem. However I did unplug and plug in the spark plug caps and I'm wandering if the leads are shot and not necessarily the coils but you can't just change the leads.

Yes you can change the leads,but first get a needle and dig it through the insulation into the wire as close to the coil as poss,take reading from there,some crappy multimeters cant read secondary coil resistance,especially through plug caps.
If it is just the leads cut em off close to the coil and splice in new ht leads,done this a few times meself,you can get in line connectors for this...