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Rocker Cover Removal
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:54 am
Author: Farmer
Is there any tips on taking this off other than be very careful, I have one bolt stripped on the outside right and its leaking quite bad.
I remember a mate taking the sump off his Z650 and he snapped every one bar two
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:23 am
Author: ZedHead
Tap around the edge with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal, avoid any temptation to attack it with a screwdriver
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:22 am
Author: needaz1100r
If the 6mm bolts are snapping, tap them a good few times with a hammer (and drift if you need it for access).
Also sometimes, tightening them very slightly before undoing, loosens them, but that needs care.
If they're really seized there's not much you can do apart from let them snap and deal with it.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:03 pm
Author: Steve Cooke
If the engine is running warm it up first.
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:10 pm
Author: Farmer
Thanks guys,
it will hopefully be running, the gasket has been added to with a lot of silicone that's squeezed out, I thought of a heat gun and a small torque wrench set just higher than the torque wrench setting.
next question is what is the torque setting for allen bolts ?.
Graham
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:59 pm
Author: Z1parR
Don't torque them , M6 into ally would hardly register on most wrenches anyway .
Just use a short allen key and nip them up .
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:11 pm
Author: Al
A great deal more complex putting it back on as the cam cover effectively tensions the chain.
When you take it off it is extremely likely that the cam timing will slip.
Especially true if you rotate the engine to check valve clearances for example.
Dont put the cam cover back on with the auto tensioner working and in situ.
Remove the cap and cross slide or you will break the cam cover / damage the chain guide blades!
Sounds like all the valves are OK from the compression figures ~ valve clearances are another matter.
AL
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:54 pm
Author: Richard Q
zorded wrote:A great deal more complex putting it back on as the cam cover effectively tensions the chain.
When you take it off it is extremely likely that the cam timing will slip.
Especially true if you rotate the engine to check valve clearances for example.
Dont put the cam cover back on with the auto tensioner working and in situ.
Remove the cap and cross slide or you will break the cam cover / damage the chain guide blades!
Sounds like all the valves are OK from the compression figures ~ valve clearances are another matter.
AL
I am going through a huge learning curve with motorcycle engines, having built and repaired many 70's and 80's car engines, but this I really cannot fully get my head around.
The cam cover is not exactly tight and has a thick relatively soft gasket, so how much could it contribute to the rigidity of the top of the engine?
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:53 am
Author: Al
Richard Q
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:54 am Post subject:
zorded wrote:
A great deal more complex putting it back on as the cam cover effectively tensions the chain.
When you take it off it is extremely likely that the cam timing will slip.
Especially true if you rotate the engine to check valve clearances for example.
Dont put the cam cover back on with the auto tensioner working and in situ.
Remove the cap and cross slide or you will break the cam cover / damage the chain guide blades!
Sounds like all the valves are OK from the compression figures ~ valve clearances are another matter.
AL
I am going through a huge learning curve with motorcycle engines, having built and repaired many 70's and 80's car engines, but this I really cannot fully get my head around.
The cam cover is not exactly tight and has a thick relatively soft gasket, so how much could it contribute to the rigidity of the top of the engine?
Richard this is a later 'J' motor which is subtly different to youre z900.
It doesnt have a wheel attached to the top of the head it has a guide blade fitted inside the cam cover.
AL
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:02 am
Author: jimmock
Guyz,
The task is taking the CAM COVER off ???
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:27 am
Author: Richard Q
jimmock wrote:Guyz,
The task is taking the CAM COVER off ???
I was merely asking if removal of the cam cover affected the rigidity of the engine, which I couldn't see happening. I had missed the bit about it being a 'J' engine
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:20 pm
Author: Farmer
Thanks Al,
I have just got my new Clymer manual and it makes more sense now
.
Graham
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:36 pm
Author: PAULJAC47
Z1parR wrote:Don't torque them , M6 into ally would hardly register on most wrenches anyway .
Just use a short allen key and nip them up .
Agree with Geoff on this i always just nip up any screws into old friable ally ,using the torque wrench built into your hands..
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:10 pm
Author: Farmer
Apart from two under the coils that I could not get too, they all came undone, well the first half turn anyway, I nipped them back up again as I was going to run the engine, now it says in the book of words to take the air suction covers off, but they seem bloody tight, do I need to do this as it looks that I can still remove it with them on ?.
Farmer
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:19 pm
Author: PAULJAC47
Just makes it a bit easier,always a ball ache to remove the cover...