Z1OwnersClub GB

Decided to degrease and polish the final drive casing so initially lobbed it into the parts washer like the dimwit I am. Then I thought ... der, should have taken it apart first! Having removed the perforated cad plated steel bit, I then realised that the foam bit behind had sucked up appox thirty gallons of parts washer fluid. Shouldn't do it any harm in that the Clarke washer fluid seems to be slightly less strong than fairy liquid, even at 100% concentration. Any one dropped this bollock and found a good way to remove the fluid along with thirty years of chain grease and allied shite?

I also need to clean/polish the alternator casing; is it a good idea to remove the stator windings for a mega clean, or is it better to work around the windings, rather than distrurb them

Vduk, just got my casings back from Mikey (Bristol), and I totally stripped both the alternator of the windings & the foam & perforated metal bit from the sprocket cover.
The best way of cleaning the sprox cover is to remove most shite by hand first The Jonny gloves should hold up for that bit. at least
When you gonna drop in for a cuppa & a Zed chat (DT9 6SA)

When you gonna drop in for a cuppa & a Zed chat (DT9 6SA)

Having just put your P/C into multimap, not 'til my bloody Jeep is running on gas again! LPG is a wonderful thang until it stops working and then you discover that the type of conversion you have isn't the one all the local LPG specialists do, so they don't have the software. Desperation then dictated that you must go back to the bandits north of Gloucester who fitted it only to discover the sods have gone outta business. Current state of play is that I have found the UK disty and have payed a kings ransom for the software, lead and dongle. Sadly no manual and the software has no help files. I managed the auto calibration bit which made the engine rev a bit cough a bit and the computer then said all was fine except that the engine still runs like a bag o shite on gas!

I should however love to take you up on your kind offer when I have a vehicle on the road I can afford to drive.

Last night while polishing the final drive casing I was puzzling why so many of the Z1OC seem to send off stuff for polishing, when the kit is so cheap to buy and it only requires time and a box of johnny gloves unless you want very black hands. The skill level required is pretty low unless you want to polish out ever scratch that a thirty year old bike has collected and want a mirror finish better than the bike originally came with. I took back the gouges where a previous owner had dropped the bike, and I do think my cases look pretty good, apart from the points cover which is beyond help. Machine mart do 8" grinders for not very much. I have a wire wheel one end and a mop the other. I do have an above average kitted workshop as I am obsesive and like tools in an unhealthy manner! (unhealthy to my bank balance that is)

I have decided that cellulose gun cleaner is the best degreaser, but I have to suffer the cold to use it. A tip from my mate Shaun (who is on here) is to use WD40 and to be honest it's not something I would have considered but it breaks down thick greasy shite like nothing else. I've been working it in with the bride's daughter's tooth brush and it works a treat. WD40 isn't that expensive either if you buy it in gallon bottles at a local engineering supplies (when it's on special offer).

Best get off my arse and get the windings out to degrease the dynamo casing.

Talking of degreaser's, i use my home heating oil!! it is brillant not sure if it harms rubber parts though, brush it on and wash it off two max minutes later, i've not come across anything better..

Parrafin from the local garage works a treat and is dead cheap