Z1OwnersClub GB

I'm trying to pin down the ignition options on the GPz1100A3 motor I'm using in my Harris. If I'm going to have to change the crank cover I'd like to get it painted at the same time as the rest of the stuff.

All I have in the kit of parts are the ignition pickups on the end of the crank so I need an igniter (and coils and leads).

The Unitrack doesn't have a mechanical advancer so a Dyna-S is no good to me.

A Dyna-2000 has electronic advance but, according to Z1 Enterprises, needs the Z1000J engine cover fitting to get the three point mounting for the Dyna-2000 plate. Adding the cost of this to the £300+ for the Dyna-2000 and this option is looking pricey.

I could get a stock igniter but they're 30 years old now.

Someone on oldskoolperformance mentioned using a TCI box from ignitech.cz - anyone tried or even heard of them them?

Any other options I've not thought of?

I'm fairly certain that the end of the uni crank is the same as the j type having a drive pin and taper for the ignition rotor.
I have both here if you want me to check.
If that is true then a J type inner cover and advance / retard mechanism and a dyna S would be the cheaper and safer option.
If it was me knowing what i know now i would be buying a j type inner cover off ebay (there were about four on there last week around £30 or so each ) and Dyna 2000.
There is no difference between the 2000 kit for the J and the Uni, in as much as they fit to the crank the same way which suggests plan 'A' (cheap option) might be a goer.
The difference is in the case as Jeff says and you need a J inner cover with the three point mounting for the 2000 baseplate.

Not had any experience of any other makes sorry.

AL

I think I have a 'stock' igniter somewhere. Happy to dig it out if you wanna give it a try?
I used standard Uni-Trak ignition + Dyna coils on my 1170R & it worked well.

I have Dyna 2000 fitted to my Moto Martin which has Unitrak motor. It is correct that you will need to replace the casing but they are fairly easy to come across. My other GPz has Boyer ignition which is in the Unitrak case. Neither require the mechanical advance/retard.

I think I have the standard ignitor somewhere as well if you prefer to stay standard.

Thanks for the offers of igniters chaps. PM's sent.

Just for reference, here's the Unitrack trigger and the end of the crank. The trigger doesn't have any taper but there is one on the crank end.

Im Glad you have brought this up
I have a B2 im building and i have aquired a unitrac bottom end inc all electrics fitted?
Will i have to fit the B2 ignition pickups and advance gear or will it work as is.
Im thinking advance curve and spark timing.
Also my old advance is/was seized up.

Eh??? Are you bolting a B2 top end onto a Unitrack bottom end???

Anyway, I don't have a B2 manual to hand but the B1 version says the ignition timing is:

10° rising to 40° at 3,400 rpm

while the Unitrack (A2 manual but I'm pretty sure the A1&3 are the same) is:

10° rising to 37° at 3,400 rpm

So the Unitrack ignition has less advance once the motor's errr.. motoring

I have a unitrac bottom end and barrels and pistons i have a B2 head to go on from my old engine can i leave the unitrac electric pickups on or do i need the B2 ones on to make it spark.
What im asking is if I plug the Unitrac ones in will they generate a spark or a big bang ?
I could start with the B2 ones and see but i will have to buy the advance mechanism as mine has broken pegs on.

RoyP

Uni-trak bottom end has 18mm gudgeon pins & combustion chamber shape is specific to the Uni-trak with different valve angles. So 18mm pin Uni-track pistons may not be compatible with a 'B' head.

I know they have 18 mm pins i have had the head on dry seems ok i have to do the shims yet and the valves are a bit smaller but will it spark.

Are you saying that you're planning on connecting the Unitrack pulse coils (the triggers on the crank) to the B electronics?

That won't work as the A (unitrack) has electronic ignition advance and the B has mechanical.

You could use the Unitrack ignition igniter with the Unitrack pulse coils. That would give you three degrees less advance at 3,400 RPM than a normal B system (but your mix is far from normal!).

If I were in your shoes, I think I would be seriously looking at a programmable ignition (Dyna2000) so it could be tuned for your mix of components.

So should i just fit the B2 ignition complete and set for less advance.
Or the complete unitrack system
but not a mix

GB is a very very nice man..... even if he does get rid of his excess Jiffy bags by posting them to people!

Thought you'd like a bit of 'pass the parcel'......