Z1OwnersClub GB

Hello guys

Just a quick one what gearing have you used with success

Looking for something tried and tested and good all round

my elr is on 17's and I use 17/39 which is just about perfect

I have just put a 530 C&S on my uni-trak A2 ,Talon light weight rear 46 t ,
if you phone Debben`s ,he knows what the correct size`s are for the 530 conversion . cost more ,but loads better quality , and loads lighter !!

snotie1965 wrote:I have just put a 530 C&S on my uni-trak A2 ,Talon light weight rear 46 t ,
if you phone Debben`s ,he knows what the correct size`s are for the 530 conversion . cost more ,but loads better quality , and loads lighter !!

is it on 17's?

weaver wrote:

snotie1965 wrote:I have just put a 530 C&S on my uni-trak A2 ,Talon light weight rear 46 t ,
if you phone Debben`s ,he knows what the correct size`s are for the 530 conversion . cost more ,but loads better quality , and loads lighter !!

is it on 17's?

Yes 17 " wheels ,630 that was on before was 15 front 41 rear ,and pulled really well
As long as you tell debben your wheel sizes and bike he does the sums for correct gearing .

That's really usefull information cheers guys

To work out your final drive ratio divide teeth on rear by teeth on front sprocket

Marve,

You say you have 17 inch rims.

Assuming the height of the tyre is approx 3 inches.
That is a total of 23 inches diameter.

I'd say the biggest sprocket you want to go to is a MAX of 22 inches.

I would also pint out the chain guard CANNOT be used.

I hope I've been of some help.

The required final drive ratio won't change whether it's a 530 630 or a piece of string connecting them to quote a friend of mine who designs gearboxes.... The confusion arises because a 530 15 would be too small to give ample clearance on the shaft so you can't get one, so a 530 conversion on an old engine will probably use a 17, therefore the rear number needs to change too. On the same wheel size it's a straight calculation on the ratio. Also some rear hub bolt patterns are too big to take rear sprockets with fewer than a certain number of teeth so you need to work with the ratio and what will fit on what you've got. To use the example above 15/41 is .365 17/46 is .369 so they're pretty close. 17/47 would be .361 so it's half a tooth either way and probably either would do with the 47 having a bit more low down.

If you change the wheel size it will involve a calculation based on the difference between the wheel circumferences to work out the new final drive ratio.

Just checked mine (530)
Rear 43 teeth
Front 18 teeth

And the SLR.

Which is the STATIC LOAD RADIUS.

ie, the flat bit at the bottom of the tyre (due to weight).

Obviously as the wheel speeds up, due to centifugal forces the tyre "gets bigger", and thus "up gears" the bike. We just need to live with that.

jimmock wrote:And the SLR.

Which is the STATIC LOAD RADIUS.

ie, the flat bit at the bottom of the tyre (due to weight).

Obviously as the wheel speeds up, due to centifugal forces the tyre "gets bigger", and thus "up gears" the bike. We just need to live with that.

That is why i went to Debben`s ,he has already tried and tested many different variants over the years ,and knows he stuff !

I looked at previous bikes I have owned,xjr final drive ratio 2.3, zrx 2.6 so went with 17/39 which gives 2.3,this gives decent acceleration and 70 in top is 5000rpm where the motor feels relaxed,I have tried a few different configurations and this is by far the best I have come across.Standard ELR gearing is 15/41 giving 2.7 but with 17 inch wheels the motor was working too hard at a given speed,70 in top was just over 6000rpm which was too busy for the motor