What's the best way to install the cylinder studs and torque them down? Shoul I use on of the chrome nuts or a pair of nuts locked off? Doesn't look like enough room for 2 nuts.
Should I use loctite on the threads?
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Cylinder Studs
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Cylinder Studs
Just purchased a 1976 UK Z900 A4 for renovation. Wish me luck.
Bike now finished what a joy!
Bike now finished what a joy!
Use a spare cylinder head nut with a 6mm or 8mm ball bearing inside sat on top of the stud.
You will be able to torque the stud down and the nut will release easily.
This is how the factory tool works.
If you look at the top of the original studs you will see a small dimple from when they were done originally.
Use thread lock at the crankcase end.
You will be able to torque the stud down and the nut will release easily.
This is how the factory tool works.
If you look at the top of the original studs you will see a small dimple from when they were done originally.
Use thread lock at the crankcase end.
The studs don't need a lot of torque.
On STD studs apply Loctite and screw them in until the step above the thread bottoms out on the case and then torque to only 10 to 12 ft/lb.
With HD studs with no step they need to be screwed in with Loctite until they sit at the correct height (take height measurements from original studs) and left to set.
If these are screwed in too far they will pop out the casting at the bottom of the hole.
On STD studs apply Loctite and screw them in until the step above the thread bottoms out on the case and then torque to only 10 to 12 ft/lb.
With HD studs with no step they need to be screwed in with Loctite until they sit at the correct height (take height measurements from original studs) and left to set.
If these are screwed in too far they will pop out the casting at the bottom of the hole.
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