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rotor off crank

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PETER KZ1A
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rotor off crank

#1 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:07 pm

hello gentlemen
Strugglin to remove the above
Read the manual
Crankshaft is tapered,holding woodruff key,rotor stubborn as f@@k.
There is a serious knock at idle when bike is running,think this is wear of rotor to key.
Prick to remove rotor from crank.Reluctant to resort to prybars/hammers
Any clues?
Thanks
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paulmceleney
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#2 PostAuthor: paulmceleney » Sun Mar 23, 2014 4:18 pm

you can use front wheel spindle bolt, or the top yoke bolt both fit .I use a chain and rachet used to remove oil filters from cars, with a rag wrapped around the rotor to protect it, hold tight with the rachet tighten bolt in when comes to a stop keep tightening and it will come off you might need to get someone to hold the rachet for you to stop the rotor turning and you tighten the bolt
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Pigford
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#3 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:05 pm

paulmceleney wrote:you can use front wheel spindle bolt, or the top yoke bolt both fit .I use a chain and rachet used to remove oil filters from cars, with a rag wrapped around the rotor to protect it, hold tight with the rachet tighten bolt in when comes to a stop keep tightening and it will come off you might need to get someone to hold the rachet for you to stop the rotor turning and you tighten the bolt


+ 1 - I use the top yoke bolt, but I used a nylon strap to hold the rotor still :wink:
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Compo1955
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Re: rotor off crank

#4 PostAuthor: Compo1955 » Sun Mar 23, 2014 6:03 pm

PETER KZ1A wrote:hello gentlemen
Strugglin to remove the above
Read the manual
Crankshaft is tapered,holding woodruff key,rotor stubborn as f@@k.
There is a serious knock at idle when bike is running,think this is wear of rotor to key.
Prick to remove rotor from crank.Reluctant to resort to prybars/hammers
Any clues?
Thanks


If the rotor is stuck to the crank so tight, how could a worn rotor or crank slot/woodruf key be causing a knock ?
It could be that the starter clutch unit has come loose from the rotor. That happened on my first Z1, however the rotor still has to be removed to have a look.....
If it ain`t broke.....don`t fix it


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KeithZ1R
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Re: rotor off crank

#5 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:30 pm

Compo1955 wrote:
PETER KZ1A wrote:hello gentlemen
Strugglin to remove the above
Read the manual
Crankshaft is tapered,holding woodruff key,rotor stubborn as f@@k.
There is a serious knock at idle when bike is running,think this is wear of rotor to key.
Prick to remove rotor from crank.Reluctant to resort to prybars/hammers
Any clues?
Thanks


If the rotor is stuck to the crank so tight, how could a worn rotor or crank slot/woodruf key be causing a knock ?
It could be that the starter clutch unit has come loose from the rotor. That happened on my first Z1, however the rotor still has to be removed to have a look.....


I would be looking the magnet carrier the softer alloy carrier will be loose on the tapered and hardened core . Its a pre cursor to the whole feckin lot exploding !
Keith
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PETER KZ1A
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#6 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:03 am

Got the rotor off the crankshaft this morning,complete with starter clutch,thanks for the info.
However,there is radial play between these two items.....
Is this normal?
Thanks
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Compo1955
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#7 PostAuthor: Compo1955 » Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:42 am

PETER KZ1A wrote:Got the rotor off the crankshaft this morning,complete with starter clutch,thanks for the info.
However,there is radial play between these two items.....
Is this normal?
Thanks


Should be no play. Have the bolts come loose ?, or is the radial play between the steel rotor center and the main ally rotor body as was mentioned in an earlier post by Keith Z1R.
If it ain`t broke.....don`t fix it





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PETER KZ1A
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#8 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Mon Apr 07, 2014 9:56 am

Thanks for replys,
The knock turned out to be one of the three starter clutch rollers adrift..Woodruff key in ok nick.Rotor back on with no play between it and crankshaft.
Camchain is original...looking tired too....More cash and time off road...
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KeithZ1R
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#9 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:14 am

Peter whilst its all tight grip the rotor and check for radial play again any slight twist in the carrier is only gonna get worse
Keith

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You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety



I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was

mistaken.



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PETER KZ1A
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#10 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Mon Apr 07, 2014 12:19 pm

Keith,
Just given it a test,12mm socket on crankshaft bolt and filter strap around the stator,eliminated the radial play that was there before.However not happy with camchain,sideways wear,kinks,time to change.Ill get a new 1 to compare,but reckon its shot,40 years,35000 miles....what ya reckon?
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Blackhat 999
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#11 PostAuthor: Blackhat 999 » Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:59 pm

Aye it be fooked" just done mine, What about the guides & rollers,
They be 40 years wear too :idea:
A harley" the most efficient way of turning gasoline into noise, without the by-product of horse-power
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KeithZ1R
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#12 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Tue Apr 08, 2014 3:44 pm

+1 just replace the lot chain and rubber rollers tensioner guide and the little shock absorber rubber blocks it will sound like a different engine :D
Keith

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You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety



I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was

mistaken.



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garyd
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#13 PostAuthor: garyd » Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:23 pm

How much does this cost......Zpower quoting over £500 for the parts alone!

Sound a bit steep!
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wilsonsjw11
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#14 PostAuthor: wilsonsjw11 » Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:26 pm

garyd wrote:How much does this cost......Zpower quoting over £500 for the parts alone!

Sound a bit steep!

Maybe cheaper at Z1ENTERPRISES
Regards
Steve
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