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Fitting a Dyna S ignition system - with pictures

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:26 pm
Author: chrisu
As per request here is a photo guide to installing a dyna s ignition system. It assumes you have the instructions provided with the dyna system. If you don't this will not help too much.

Firstly here are some shots of the points ignition system. These were taken in case I had to revert back to points.

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Next is the the wiring which goes from the points to the coils - these are the two wires you are going to remove/disconnect when you remove the points plate.

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Remove the points plate and the wires. Place is a box.

Remove the advance/retard unit - remove the points cam from it and replace it with the black trigger cam provided with the dyna system. Note this has to go on with the 1/4 makings to the top and the magnet (in the black trigger cam) to the left.

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Reinstall the advance/retard unit.

Mount the new timing plate and feed the wires through to where you disconnected the points wires from. It is long enough (just).

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Connect the wires as shown - note mine has a white wire with a black sleeve and a black wire with a green sleeve. Use the sleeves as indicators as to where to connect to.
Crimplock the dual red wires to the red/yellow wire shown - this is the 12v power wire and give power to the triggers.

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Now to timing. You can follow the instructions in the manual and as provided in other threads or you can do it the way I did it. I take no responsibility for my way but it does assume you have a strobe timing light - if not follow the published procedure.

Timing

I had removed all the plugs from the engine and but had the plugs in the plug caps. slowly rotate the engine until the no 4 plug sparks. Note where the timing mark on the case is in relation to the F 1/4 mark on the advance retard unit. Adjust and repeat as necessary until they line up as the plug sparks.

I then put some tippex on the fully advance mark - about 1/2 inch to the right of the F mark. See photo.

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Connect everything up and it will (should) run. warm up and using a strobe check timing at over 2,500rpm. if the white tippex mark lines up you're done. If not adjust until it is.

My now starts better, runs better and idles nicely at 800rpm - never did before.

Thanks to Mr Saunders for prompt delivery of the above bit of kit.


I await all the corrections...............

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:51 pm
Author: uk kev
Nicely done Chris.

These need putting in a seperate Tech section.

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 9:10 pm
Author: Padders
Thanks Chris

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:58 pm
Author: ROZZER
Spot on Chris, fitted this system to my zed last year and its the single best mod anyone can make to the motor. Much better running at all revs and idles far better than with points. Fit it, forget it.

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:41 pm
Author: mothra
Gents, this topic is very helpful, but unfortunately is not quite low level enough for a moron like me. Chris mentions calmly in his text 'remove the points cam from it and replace it with the black trigger cam' - how the merry hell do I get the points cam out from the advance/retard plate? Do I have to disassemble the springs and circlips then reassemble or do I just hit it really hard with a hammer?

I'm trying to fit dyna-S to my z650 from a kit supplied by Jeff at Z1, and the instructions provided really aren't very helpful...

:evil:

Stu

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:29 pm
Author: mothra
Aha. Worked it out - for anyone else searching on 'points cam' in the future, grab the weights, pull them out as far as you can, while holding them grab the shaft and twist to the right then pull towards you. Nasty crack, then it comes right off...

HTH

Stu

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:44 pm
Author: Al
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/Default.aspx


Good work Chris. Original instructions available for download at the above address.



AL

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:56 pm
Author: nanno
Just one thing, I just fitted my dyna-s to my Zed yesterday night.

Please crimp yourself a proper cable instead of using this blue-thing...

It is just a matter of time, when they get less tight and you have ignition-probs...

Just my 2 cents.
Greg

P.S.: I'll post pics later.

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 5:47 pm
Author: mick znone
that helps me, thanks nanno :D

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 5:49 pm
Author: chrisu
nanno wrote:Just one thing, I just fitted my dyna-s to my Zed yesterday night.

Please crimp yourself a proper cable instead of using this blue-thing...

It is just a matter of time, when they get less tight and you have ignition-probs...

Just my 2 cents.
Greg

P.S.: I'll post pics later.


have done since this picture was taken......... :)

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:32 pm
Author: cra-z1
Better yet, use a relay to power the system. Will prevent possible voltage drops across the ignition switch or kill switch
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relay spec

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:38 pm
Author: KWACKERZ1
I like the way that relay mod is done, what part number or spec of relay did you use as I would like to do that with mine.
Cheers
Phil

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:11 pm
Author: Rich
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /r20bd.jpg

Something like that by the looks of it, any 12V relay capable of handling 10A should do the job.

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:14 pm
Author: Pigford
Some clever sod on here was on about fitting a diode in line when you use a relay :?: to stop voltage irregularities (or sumink) :!:

Can't remember who/what/why/when, but seemed to have some logic behind it :shock:

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:15 pm
Author: Rich
It's voltage spike from the field collapsing.