Z1OwnersClub GB

just fitted dyna s system to my kz900 complete with coils and taylor leads ala mr pigford (ta very much)set the timing (static) to what i think is right.bike runs a lot better pulls stronger from about 2k to 6k rpm don,t wanna flog it any more cos unsure of state of oil in it,(must change it soon)
bike still not right idling and misses a bit just on take off below 2k rpm. i had air srews set at 1 & 1/2 out but changed them all slightly,it still seems to run rich on 1&2 and lean on 3&4 no matter what there set at.i,ve serviced the carbs but never checked needle and clip settings,could that be the cause ? i used a multi meter to set the timing on the "F" mark for each pair of cyclinders reading 10.8 volts at that mark for both with coils connected ,is this correct .
any help much appriecated

Our kid had very similar issues with his Z1B (fitted with Z1R carbs). Checked fuel heights and found them too high on 2 cylinders. After resetting heights and checking all jets needle settings, set air screws 1/8'' turn further out , balanced carbs and problem has gone.
Sorry can't help with the electrical stuff - its all greek to me. Was the stutter there before fitting the ignition/coils?

KNUT,
Set the timing statically at 40 deg BTDC, with the advance unit wound to full advance, against spring pressure. If you disconnect a plug lead & use a spare plug to watch for spark to show when it fires. Repeat for both sets of coils.
The carbs on these old bikes often run lean just on part open throttle, and its difficult to get rid of the initial stutter

thanks guys,firstly john,s question ,i have set and checked float height on all carbs ,also replaced float valves so that side is ok.i need to check needles and clip setting yet though ,
mr pigford, i,ve rechecked timing and set it to fully advanced (the last mark on rhs with the rotor wound fully clockwise did 1&4 first and also adjusted pick-up for 2&3 was out alittle.bike is running a lot better now but still stuttering a little low down in revs.but very smooth otherwise.
just might need to balance carbs now to improve low down running
question ,is setting timing to "F" without winding rotor forward the same as setting it to fully advanced with rotor wound forward ?

Only set timing with it wound to fully advanced, as this is the more critical timing reference. Then it should be OK when you give it 'the berries'

While I initially set timing on my bikes to the timing marks, I've found older engines tend to run better with the ignition retarded a couple of degrees. Usually I'll set the ignition to spec and take the bike for a ride - then turn the backplate 1-2 degrees to the right (clockwise) and take it out again - then repeat again until I find the sweetspot for that bike.

Retarding the ignition a tad helps avoid pinging under load. Each bike is a little different and I think it's really down to cam chain stretch impacting the cam timing - a well worn cam chain will have the exhaust cam off 3-4 degrees and the intake cam off 6-7 degrees - a very large amount....