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Leak after leak
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:56 am
Author: gary557
I have a z1b, got it in November and it is quite nice.
Over the winter I have been fettling and sorting out some minor issues and replaced a number of parts.
Almost each time I have started the bike I have found an oil leak and when that has been sorted another appears somewhere else.
I took the bike for a short spin last weekend and on return found there was a leak from one of the black rubber cam plug cap thingys.
Yesterday I replaced them all and it has cured that but after a short ride I found there is now a leak from the head gasket.

Also there appears to be a small leak from the rev counter connection at the motor!!
Is this the norm with Z`s/ old 4 strokes? [ I have a shed full of 2 strokes]
I will sort these issues but its very frustrating!!
Gary
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:53 pm
Author: z1bman
generator + tachometer drive + cam end plugs + cylinder head gasket + cam tunnel O ring all common things to leak
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:05 pm
Author: Z1parR
It guarantees that the engine always runs fresh oil in it though Gary

Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 2:07 pm
Author: weaver
check that the engine is breathing properly

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:01 am
Author: andyb1962
tacho drive is notorious for leaks. Clean the threads and a little little thread sealant cured mine. i marked both the cable end and the threads so i can see that it hasnt started to unwind with vibration.

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:55 am
Author: Big Fluff
weaver wrote:check that the engine is breathing properly

Yes that's the first thing I would check too.!
If the breather side is okay, run a cylinder compression check (engine warm).... If the cylinder pressure is low (i.e. below 100 psi) then it may be "blow-by" (worn bores) that's pressurising your crankcases, thus forcing oil out everywhere.
Will
Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:43 pm
Author: Garry.L
Big Fluff wrote:weaver wrote:check that the engine is breathing properly

Yes that's the first thing I would check too.!
If the breather side is okay, run a cylinder compression check (engine warm).... If the cylinder pressure is low (i.e. below 100 psi) then it may be "blow-by" (worn bores) that's pressurising your crankcases, thus forcing oil out everywhere.
Will
Agreed. Over pressure in the crankcases will just keep blowing seals - you fix one and the next weakest will fail.
Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:22 pm
Author: zedrider
was going to say check the oil breather . as you are curing the leaks the presure builds and i looks for a way out .
Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:17 pm
Author: tricky
hi gary, for the tacho cable there is, inside the drive housing, a seal that looks like a tiny valve stem seal, renew this, as they harden with age and pass oil, also there is supposed to be a thin circular gasket, that goes beetween the surface of the cable outer, and the face of the drive gear housing, have a look at kawasaki club sweeden website they have all the parts diagrams on there site, i had the same problem last year, hope this helps tricky.
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:39 pm
Author: gary557
Thanks guys.
Regarding the black cam end plugs, is there a knack to putting them in, ie do they need sealant or anything, or is it just pot luck as to wether they seal properly?
Gary
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:44 pm
Author: chrisu
spotlessly clean with alcohol first.
either very sticky black silicone sealer from halfords or kawabond.
place
very light pressure to get them level
come back the following day and tighten down.
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:55 pm
Author: PAULJAC47
Roughen them slightly with fine emery,clean with brake cleaner,use Halfords RTV,Room tempreture vulcanisation,when its nearly gone off,THEN tighten down cam cover.just a thought how much oil are you putting in? about midway on the sight glass is correct when the bike is level with both wheels on the ground,also as others have said make sure the breather is clear...
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:04 pm
Author: gary557
Thanks lads
