Z1OwnersClub GB

My Lawson rep has damaged cylinder fins,I believe the bike has a big bore kit fitted and I have obtained an undamaged set of barrels on std bore.
I am thinking of pressing the liners out of the barrels with undamaged fins and fitting my rebored liners in.I have access to a press,has anyone done this and if so what was your experience? I saw an article in Practical Sportsbike mag recently where they did this I think with out a press..
thanks

they are sweated in. you will need a good blow torch to heat up the cylinders turn them upside down + support them on something that will allow the liners to drop free from the cylinder when you have applied the heat.

I have done this myself, it's relatively easy heat up the block with a blow torch whilst supported either side of the liner you want out and use a piece of hardwood on the bottom of the sleeve and a copper mallet on the wood tap firmly and when hot enough the liners will tap out make sure you have a piece of ply or hardboard underneath if you are doing it on the floor so if the liner pops out quick it does not get damaged also remember which is front and back, same method for putting back in be patient and don't beat the hell out of it. Alternatively if you have access to a press use it, you may also have to get the surface milled when put in the new block.

They were cold pressed in at the factory but you must warm them up to remove or they will drag alloy block material out with them and cause a loose fit.
No need to use a press.
Put the block under the grill or in the oven sitting on the liners and slowly increase the heat.
When they are hot enough you will hear a clunk as the block slides down the liners on to the oven shelf.
Quickly remove the liners and replace with the good ones which you obviously removed first by the same method.
Have something ready to set the block on that will allow the liners to hang free.
You need something weighty (four bricks etc) to sit on the liner tops to keep them seated while they cool.
When they are cool you can check they are fully seated with your press.
The barrel might need a light skim to level the liner tops.
I would not recommend reboring the liners prior to this as swapping the blocks might alter the piston clearances.
You will need to recheck piston/bore clearances and rehone if necessary.

In a moment of madness I put my engine parts in th dish washer, when I removed the block the liners more or les fell out. Just pushed them back and when it cooled they where locked in place again.

Ps the moment of madness was thinking she wouldn't notice me using thr dish washer.

thanks for the replies,will try zed1015's method(any idea what temp I will need to get them to?) on the spare set before I strip the motor ie liners out and then back in to see how it goes,will let you know

I just bung them in the oven or under the grill with the door shut and slowly turn up the heat .
When they go clunk they are hot enough

Are they 1260 liners They have a poor reputation for knackering up

You guys are so lucky being allowed to use the oven, i'm not allowed after warming a chain in a pot of grease in ours years ago, i could not understand what the problem was it only took about a week to air the house out.

zed1015 wrote:I just bung them in the oven or under the grill with the door shut and slowly turn up the heat .
When they go clunk they are hot enough

cheers mate will let you know

Pigford wrote:Are they 1260 liners They have a poor reputation for knackering up

dont think they are 1260,will only know once I open it up

Pigford wrote:Are they 1260 liners They have a poor reputation for knackering up

Why ?
I've never had a problem with them.
Do you mean breaking through the barrel casting when boring the std block to take them, sometimes causing minor oil seepage.

Maybe "Old Wives Tales" - but they were prone to moving in the barrels for one Probably coz there weren't enuff meat (horse or otherwise - sic) to keep 'em in place Also heard of some that cracked

You don't have to get the block very hot.

I was lumiwelding the M6 holes (to retap) with a butane torch, did one end then when I started on the other, the block just slide down the liners with a clunk!

ruffle wrote:You don't have to get the block very hot.

I was lumiwelding the M6 holes (to retap) with a butane torch, did one end then when I started on the other, the block just slide down the liners with a clunk!

Yes! doesn't take much but best to heat the entire block evenly to avoid distortion.