z1000 clutch issue

z1000puddin · #1 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:25 pm

I had my 1075 up & down the road for the first time, all felt okay apart from my clutch.
I have a Falk hydraulic clutch.
I have clutch slip from about 3k rpm....
I also have slight clutch drag eg when stationary going from first to neutral ??

I did trim the clutch push rod by 4mm as when I set the clutch first time,I could not get any clutch engagement.This seemed to work okay & I managed to get rear wheel movement.

If I shorten the clutch push rod more, I will end up with more drag.??

The clutch plates are all new barnett,

Any sugestions gents ?

I need to get this sorted before the weekend - paint set arriving

:lol:

Stu

z1bman · #2 PostAuthor: **z1bman** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:45 pm

are all the bolts that hold the sprocket cover in place + secure. as this will cause the cover to flex + you will loose some travel on the push rod ?

z1000puddin · #3 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:21 pm

z1bman wrote:are all the bolts that hold the sprocket cover in place + secure. as this will cause the cover to flex + you will loose some travel on the push rod ?

Yeah,
Checked this, all tight & no casing movement

stu

z1bman · #4 PostAuthor: **z1bman** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:32 pm

what position is the bleed screw at. if it is near the bottom of the slave cylinder you might have an air pocket in the cylinder

z1000puddin · #5 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:36 pm

No, the bleed nipple is at about 10 oclock position.

My main issue is...
How can I have clutch slip & clutch drag at the same time ??

Normally it would be one or the other.

Stu

z1bman · #6 PostAuthor: **z1bman** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:42 pm

only thing i can think of that would cause both problems is the oil you are using ? was it ok before you put the hydraulic conversion on

z1000puddin · #7 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:47 pm

The motor is a complete new build.
Crankshaft up
Under cut gear box
New barnett plates
10W40 Semi synthetic Castrol

Could it be down to the oil not absorbed into the plates ??

Oil has been in the engine for over 2 weeks tho ?

Stu

z1bman · #8 PostAuthor: **z1bman** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:59 pm

i would try changing the oil to a standard SAE 20/50 10w 40

JohnJ · #9 PostAuthor: **JohnJ** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 1:28 pm

My z1000 A1 did this with semi synthetic oil, a switch to mineral oil cured it.

zed1015 · #10 PostAuthor: **zed1015** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:00 pm

Did you replace the plain plates.
These are the symptoms of warped steels.

Pigford · #11 PostAuthor: **Pigford** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:43 pm

If running the motor IN, ditch the posh semi oil & whack in cheapo mineral for the first few hundred miles :!:

Did you soak the new friction plates BEFORE assembling the clutch :?:

Was there any wear (ridges) on the clutch basket tangs :?:

#12 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 5:56 pm

I've had clutch slip with new friction plates from not soaking them properly... :oops:

Sorted itself out after a few miles.

z1000puddin · #13 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 5:58 pm

Gents,
New steel plates fitted, BUT NO I did not soak the fibre plates :shock:

I assumed that being in the oil over a couple of weeks now that that would be sufficient?

Looks like I will have to whip the clutch out

Stu

mutz-nutz · #14 PostAuthor: **mutz-nutz** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 6:17 pm

i have had the same problem on to zed thous and both times it was down to semi-synthetic oiul been used hope you get it sorted

z1000puddin · #15 PostAuthor: **z1000puddin** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:39 pm

Thanks Guys,
I will drain the oil over the week end.& give a try out on the road.

Busy at the moment with my black zed, changing out the gearbox

I think I will start a new thread for this....

Stu

z1000 clutch issue

z1000 clutch issue

Who is online