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Thinking about doing a full re-wire
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:40 pm
Author: captaincaveman
Considering doing a full rewire on the bike, but wanted to do in sections as i go along and keep to the original diagram
Question is can you still get the original connectors, or do i have to find an alternative, and scupper the "in sections" idea?
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:21 pm
Author: KWACKERZ1
Vehicle wiring products is a good source of connectors etc.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... e_menu.php
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:33 pm
Author: Serps
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ectors.php
The mini connectors are a match for the connectors on the main loom, at least they are on my A4.
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:07 pm
Author: scott
Jay......i looked into this for my z1000A2 and realised it is nearly impossible to get the coloured connectors.....zpower managed to provide me with a new harness for £100. If you want it to look original then maybe talk to zpower.
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:15 pm
Author: captaincaveman
is that the mate n lock or the 6.3mm connectors? i think most wont matter if i rewire the whole thing in one go, the only one im worried about it the one to the cdi box in the tail unit
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:17 pm
Author: scott
I really struggled to get the blue, green and brown connectors under the side panel.....hens teeth
Just realised.....you're talking about aGPZ and not a Z.....disregard my blurb then.
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:20 pm
Author: captaincaveman
scott wrote:Jay......i looked into this for my z1000A2 and realised it is nearly impossible to get the coloured connectors.....zpower managed to provide me with a new harness for £100. If you want it to look original then maybe talk to zpower.
I dont mind it not looking exact, just want to make sure the standard diagram can still be followed through, matching the connectors, just meant i could tackle, say handlebars to tank or rear end to under seat, bit by bit
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:22 pm
Author: captaincaveman
scott wrote:I really struggled to get the blue, green and brown connectors under the side panel.....hens teeth
Just realised.....you're talking about aGPZ and not a Z.....disregard my blurb then.
im sure theres probably some odd ones too, want to replace the fusebox with blades too as the glass ones i got caused a headache to find with certain sizes
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:13 pm
Author: Al
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /lfb06.jpg
This fuse box is a near enough copy from VWP.
I replaced the six way black connector with a white one but coloured it in with a permanent marker. Cant tell.
This may help to get it set out if you go this way.
Looking back it may have been easier to replace one wire at a time and its associated connectors whilst the loom was on the bike but stripped of tape.
Watch out for those multiple 'twisted' earth connectors buried in the loom!!
They will need soldering at the very least or straight tubular connectors may be better.
AL
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:25 pm
Author: captaincaveman
zorded wrote:http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /lfb06.jpgThis fuse box is a near enough copy from VWP.
I replaced the six way black connector with a white one but coloured it in with a permanent marker. Cant tell.
This may help to get it set out if you go this way.
Looking back it may have been easier to replace one wire at a time and its associated connectors whilst the loom was on the bike but stripped of tape.
Watch out for those multiple 'twisted' earth connectors buried in the loom!!
They will need soldering at the very least or straight tubular connectors may be better.
AL
Yeah cheers mate, ive had a good look, handlebars to underseat/battery area not too bad, rear light to same area also ok, that centre area is a minefield as the wires just vanish
Its pretty standard for this kinda age and condition of bike, all the wires have that solid brittle feel and everything is covered in 4 layers of insulating tape
Im having a think on what the end result is before i start, i putting the standard rear light on, keeping the indicators off(as there arent any at present), but going to run feeds through so the option is there in the future, then the real head scatch of if to keep these clocks or replace with the monster console, and which light to go on the front, im split between standard b1 or possible a nice zed or similar
My ideas have gone through so many stages, lawson rep, 1000j kind of look and totally standard
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:28 pm
Author: captaincaveman
captaincaveman wrote:zorded wrote:http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /lfb06.jpgThis fuse box is a near enough copy from VWP.
I replaced the six way black connector with a white one but coloured it in with a permanent marker. Cant tell.
This may help to get it set out if you go this way.
Looking back it may have been easier to replace one wire at a time and its associated connectors whilst the loom was on the bike but stripped of tape.
Watch out for those multiple 'twisted' earth connectors buried in the loom!!
They will need soldering at the very least or straight tubular connectors may be better.
AL
Yeah cheers mate, ive had a good look, handlebars to underseat/battery area not too bad to do, rear light to same area also ok, that centre area is a minefield as the wires just vanish
Its pretty standard for this kinda age and condition of bike, all the wires have that solid brittle feel and everything is covered in 4 layers of insulating tape
Im having a think on what the end result is before i start, i putting the standard rear light on, keeping the indicators off(as there arent any at present), but going to run feeds through so the option is there in the future, then the real head scatch of if to keep these clocks or replace with the monster console, and which light to go on the front, im split between standard b1 or possible a nice zed or similar
My ideas have gone through so many stages, lawson rep, 1000j kind of look and totally standard
Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:00 pm
Author: Rich
2.8mm - just look up Hitachi connector blocks, the latched ones are better than the earlier unlatched as the female connector has a spring system. You should be able to take the connectors out and re-use your original block if you want. Either buy a special tool - expensive or make some blades from steel pallet strapping - or use a small watchmakers screwdriver. 6.3 mm connector blocks are also available. Personally I'd do the loom in one, make a peg board to run the wires on or run them on the frame. put the wires in the right way at the connector blocks then you won't have any nasty twists when you come to put the blocks on.
Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:18 am
Author: captaincaveman
Rich wrote:2.8mm - just look up Hitachi connector blocks, the latched ones are better than the earlier unlatched as the female connector has a spring system. You should be able to take the connectors out and re-use your original block if you want. Either buy a special tool - expensive or make some blades from steel pallet strapping - or use a small watchmakers screwdriver. 6.3 mm connector blocks are also available. Personally I'd do the loom in one, make a peg board to run the wires on or run them on the frame. put the wires in the right way at the connector blocks then you won't have any nasty twists when you come to put the blocks on.
Cheers Rich, ah the old peg boards, that brings back memorys
