Cam Shims - Top overhaul

[kiwiz]

All the commentary is that you put the cam bucket shims on a Z with the size on the underside of the shim towards the bucket. I assume this is to prevent the size being worn off by cam action rather than because only one side is hardened? I have quite a number of shims which seem to have no size markings probably because they have been inserted upside down at some time. I have measured them up with a micrometer so know the size but wondered if what side was up was important?

[Pigford]

Hi.... shim insertion is not orientation sensitive... the 'hardening' process will be throughout the whole of the material.. full thickness!?
Word of warning tho'... don't try to fit em in sideways to take up LARGE amounts of slack....????? :o

[Steve R]

Kiwiz,
I do not think its important other than for the reason you state about wearing off the markings.
I would say that you have to be carefull of he markings any way . I have just done mine and used a micrometer on every one and some were not as marked but thinner, presumably just worn away a bit.
I believe if they do wear then the hardened coating may be worn through and they will wear faster and possibly break up.
The other thing is the very early z1 s had a different type of bucket which did not support the shim properly in the middle. The shims got a buls eye worn on them. Kawasaki replaced these shims and buckets under warrenty but if you ever get a shim worn like that its probably best to scrap it.

[kiwiz]

Is it best to set up the shimming once the head is back on the bike or before assembly. If the latter is there any safe method for rotating the cams? It seems a lot easier to do the work on the bench than on the bike.

[Pigford]

You gotta set valve clearances (shims) with head on & torqued up. If you try doing it before fitting head, chances are things will move/twist whilst torquing down. Also, once you've done a couple of hundred miles, re-torque & re check clearances again!!!