Z1OwnersClub GB

Can anyone advise the best way to improve my Z1J brakes got braided hoses and bled with power bleed kit but still seen more life in atramps vest. Ideas anyone and sources.

Cheers,

Nuttyneil66

If you're used to modern bikes and their very efficient brakes you need to mentally adapt your riding style perhaps when riding the older "classic" Zeds. But the J's shouldnt be that bad, If you really think the J's are bad, try a Z1 with one front disc, in the wet.

Loads of folks up-grade to more modern fittings off other models. I fitted a new Locheed 5/8th M/C and two full length braided hoses (no splitter) to my Rickman which also has Locheed calipers and it pulls up even sharper than my ZX9R. Hunt round a breakers and see what you can find.

As Rickman CR says... either aftermarket stuff (Pretech, Harrison, Brembo.. etc) or get original stuff A1. You could always try to get some decent replacement pads.. sintered or such like, if you want to keep it original. Or you can get a modern 4/6-pot caliper set up from breakers/fleaBay and make an adaptor plate to fit it!
I had a nice billet 'Pretech' on me Z1A... also some braided Goodridge hose fitted to the standard brake lever/master cylinder. As it was the smaller bore it needed a hefty tug and felt a bit wooden, but worked well. Trouble is, the wheel would stop turning, but the bike just bucked and carried on going! The brakes were just TOO good for the rest of the '70's bits (frame/small tyres/suspension..etc).
Alternatively, ride slower!?

(Edited by Pigford at 5:50 pm on June 7, 2006)

is there room to fit 4/6 pot calipers when using a standard front end then?

Do a search for brakes using the search facility above and you'll find other threads discussing this. You need narrow calipers to work with the standard front end as Pigford said Pretech, Billet are thin enough too, and some of the H****a Nissin ones are narrow at the back as well. Your average four/six potter Tokico won't fit with the standard wheels and forks.

Neil,a more modern master cylinder usually improves thingz.
Chris is right about the Nissin calipers and a mate of mine with a Z1000 shaft has got old CBR 600 calipers and master cylinder working on standard discs.Mounting plates were needed to fit the calipers.

Not a good picky.. but heres me old Z1A with a nice Pretech 6-pot caliper... Made for Zeds. Got it cheap as you can see its the second caliper (r/hand side) for a twin setup!

Polished up nice... Has some Carbone Lorraine SBK sintered pads in it.

(Edited by Pigford at 6:43 pm on June 8, 2006)

I have had problems on my "J" with spongy front brakes. Even with them spongy I know to my cost I can still lock the front up so I am not critical of their performance per se. Over here (NZ) we have a 6 monthly roadworthiness inspection system which means my brakes have to run the gauntlet of the inspector regularily. Consequentially I have had a couple of knock backs.

My observations are that if you have replaced the lines then
you should check the caliper pistons. Mine had gone rusty due to irregular fluid changes. Was able to get new pistons and seal kits (one piston per caliper) but the pistons look easy to fabricate, perhaps from stainless steel. Use the hydraulic system to pump out the piston from the caliper after lifting caliper with fluid lines still attached of the fork slider bracket.

I have completly dismantled the front master cylinder. Again this was pretty easy work with two lugs on a plastic ring all that holds the piston assembly in place. No problems getting a new kit and at a reasonable price. Check the bore of the master cylinder for scoring before reassembly, If score the marks these might hone out but I would take it to a brake specialist for inspection.

Have also had problems with a dragging rear brake but this was down to a rusty pedal pivot prevent full release of the rear brake hydraulics. As you can gather my Z is a bit of a rat, but application of lots $$$ is turning the mutton into lamb.

If you have alloy caliper bodies don't make them out of stainless, a better way to do it is to make them out of 6082 alluminium and have them hard anodised (which is what AP do for their racing ones). Check with the anodisers what thickness the anodising will be (usually 0.002")double it and take it off the diameter when turning.