What is the best method of removing / replacing valve guides?
Also, will the seats always need to be re-cut following guide replacement or will lapping-in be sufficient.
Cheers,
Andy
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Valve guide replacement
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
- DogsbolloxofZ1B
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1592
- Joined: 28th Feb 2006
- Location: Near Chichester
Hack, as Pigford & Dogsbollox' have said it is a job for the pro's, but if your ####-bent on doing it I would approach it this way.
You need a punch .... the diameter to fit into the guide and a shoulder not quite as wide as the guide. Now heat the head in an oven (don't tell the wife!) for about 10 mins at 150 degrees Centigrade. (Or just too hot to handle, unless you have those joined-together gloves things!) and just gentle tap out from the combustion chamber. You may get two done then re-heat.... Don't get heavy-handed or you will remove metal and the new ones will be loose. Install the same way... maybe a little hotter. Have the new guides in the freezer. You will know when they are home it makes a different noise when the little circlip on the new guide bottoms.
Now check with grinding paste to see if you have to re-cut the seat. Alot of times it will be OK with a grind, however, if the guides have been operating for a while with a lot of clearance they could need re-cutting. There is a special tool for this and it does require some expertise. (Seems a bit easy, hope I didn't forget something!).
Regardz.
(Edited by Garn 1 at 11:46 pm on May 26, 2006)
You need a punch .... the diameter to fit into the guide and a shoulder not quite as wide as the guide. Now heat the head in an oven (don't tell the wife!) for about 10 mins at 150 degrees Centigrade. (Or just too hot to handle, unless you have those joined-together gloves things!) and just gentle tap out from the combustion chamber. You may get two done then re-heat.... Don't get heavy-handed or you will remove metal and the new ones will be loose. Install the same way... maybe a little hotter. Have the new guides in the freezer. You will know when they are home it makes a different noise when the little circlip on the new guide bottoms.
Now check with grinding paste to see if you have to re-cut the seat. Alot of times it will be OK with a grind, however, if the guides have been operating for a while with a lot of clearance they could need re-cutting. There is a special tool for this and it does require some expertise. (Seems a bit easy, hope I didn't forget something!).
Regardz.
(Edited by Garn 1 at 11:46 pm on May 26, 2006)
Pigford, griding-paste can get to the guides, particularly, if you use too much oil. The stem needs some oil while lapping and the paste needs just a little, but, not enough to run down to the guide. Also, only a small amount of paste is needed. The head is usually in a state where it can be washed, if the guide, inadvertently, has some ginding paste on the guide/stem surface. Rest easy, not much damaged would be caused if this does happen.
RegardZ.
RegardZ.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests