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Front caliper bleed nipple's snapped removal help please.

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KWACKERZ1
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Front caliper bleed nipple's snapped removal help please.

#1 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:43 pm

Just rebuilt and repainted my calipers and came to bleed the buggers and the nipple snapped off :twisted: :twisted:

So I thought, what would people recommend to remove it,

What size thread / tap are they as standard.
so what drill size would I need to drill out the snapped one and then be able to rethread the hole.

Alternative would it be possible to tap the snapped screw and put in a thinner bleed nipple?

Just trying to salvage the body really as having re-furbed it I don't really want to scrap it.

Any help on the best way forward appreciated?
Last edited by KWACKERZ1 on Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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jimmock
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#2 PostAuthor: jimmock » Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:49 pm

I couldn't comment about threads etc from here.

But what I would say is the drill MUST BE 100% CENTRE or your caliper will be SCRAP.

I had the same problem with two nipples on a pair of Princess 4 pots about 2 months ago. Got them both out and salvaged the 10 x 1.0 thread.

It is too late for you with this tip now, but I ALWAYS use a kettle of BOILING water poured around the nipple to come out with alloy calipers.
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z1bman
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#3 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:11 pm

if you don't want to attemp to do the job yourself get it spark eroded. if you don't drill it out perfectly + the seating surface is not square it will never seal. spark erosion will only remove the metal nipple

http://www.cylex-uk.co.uk/leicester/wire%20erosion.html

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#4 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:38 pm

If the nipple is still 'fluid tight' you could fit one of these in place of the banjo bolt.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Goodridge-Ban ... 3f1baa44eb
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#5 PostAuthor: gray » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:54 pm

saw a thing mentioned in Classic motorcycle Mechanics this month.Run a LEFT HAND drill down the remains of the bleed nipple. Choose a size a bit bigger than the central hole in the nipple , but not as big as where the threading is going to be. The central hole will act as a guide for you- the drill will try and follow the easiest path, and if you expand the alloy by steeping the caliper in boiling water and all that anticlockwise force your chances should be fair. don't drill further than the natural end of the fluid passage or you'll spoil the seat that the nipple settles down onto.
tracy tools were said to do the left hand drills
gray

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#6 PostAuthor: ADRIAN H » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:54 pm

removing broken bleed nipple thread.

http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index ... ic=83637.0
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