Z1OwnersClub GB

Ok, bit lost now, seen my bike in parts lists as both gpz1100 and z1100gp which is one thing.... But now ive got really confused as workshop manual shows gpz1100 on front(with gpz badges) but says kz1100?

And to add to the confusion the wiring inside says european model z1100-b1 and canadian and US as kz1100-b1

I look at my log book and discover mine is an imported vehicle in 96

Is the kz or gpz mean anything outside of just the name, eg are their any differences and how can i tell if mine is a canadian/us import or something else as two wiring diagrams gonna be different?

this is the manual i got

GPZ1100B1 is known as the - Z1100B1.

In the states all Zeds after 1975 were known as KZ900, KZ1000, etc.
Therefore the Z1100B1 became - KZ1100B1.

Not sure of any differences on this model. Main differences on other models were - Handle bars, front and rear mudguards. Single front discs on some models.

Ah ok thanks, didnt know much about this model, just been reading more about the efi and not sure how much of a lemon the standard bike is, seems like everyones converted to carbs and can see this project just draining money as i dont have the expertise myself and doesnt look like a cheap conversion to do

Nothing wrong with the ijection...just like carbs they need servicing...but nobody knew how to do it...so they slagged it off and put carbs on.

Plenty of GPzs still running around with theitr inject...and it'd really easy to repair if it does go wrong.

Most injection systems on the GPZ's fail due to poor electrical conections. Have a good look through the loom take your time and you should be fine. I recently restored one that was a real mess when I bought it and I have a phobia about wiring but with a bit of help from the site members I got her going.

See link below B1 same as your bike.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... highlight=

garyd wrote:Nothing wrong with the ijection...just like carbs they need servicing...but nobody knew how to do it...so they slagged it off and put carbs on.

Plenty of GPzs still running around with theitr inject...and it'd really easy to repair if it does go wrong.

excellent, thats put the old mind at ease abit, i thought it was a foregone conclusion that the b1 was definitely doomed without converting

Padders wrote:Most injection systems on the GPZ's fail due to poor electrical conections. Have a good look through the loom take your time and you should be fine. I recently restored one that was a real mess when I bought it and I have a phobia about wiring but with a bit of help from the site members I got her going.

See link below B1 same as your bike.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... highlight=

Cheers dude, yeah mine looks similar, wiring wise. i dont mind the wiring side, im just gonna tackle bits at a time with that but injectors and that air sensor thing joined to the airbox, that i dont have a clue about, still be good to learn

Batterys going on today, then new plugs and ht leads, then i'll see whats what

captaincaveman wrote:

Padders wrote:Most injection systems on the GPZ's fail due to poor electrical conections. Have a good look through the loom take your time and you should be fine. I recently restored one that was a real mess when I bought it and I have a phobia about wiring but with a bit of help from the site members I got her going.

See link below B1 same as your bike.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... highlight=

Cheers dude, yeah mine looks similar, wiring wise. i dont mind the wiring side, im just gonna tackle bits at a time with that but injectors and that air sensor thing joined to the airbox, that i dont have a clue about, still be good to learn

Batterys going on today, then new plugs and ht leads, then i'll see whats what

There's n appendix in the back of the manual which will show you how to check the fi. It also lists the model differences IIRC

cheers mate, much appreciated

I ran a standard B1 for years with the standard injection without any problems I am on building another at the mo and plan to put the standard injection back on. Padders is spot on any probs are usually just poor conections. the system is an L-JETTRONIC system made under licence from bosch used on 8 valve BMW's, it even copes with a race pipe without the need for any alterations. the yank B1's have different clock covers and an engine air cleaner system on the motor.

just a note but you may need to prime the fuel system before it will start if it has stood for a while. remove the the air filter turn the ignition on and push the airflow meter flap in the airbox and the fuel pump will start and pressurize the system. to make sure it is working have the return pipe to the tank off and the fuel will shoot out at about 36psi (dont look down the pipe when you do it ) but have something to catch it in. put the pipe back onto the tank and press the flap again and you are ready to go.

big green bus wrote:I ran a standard B1 for years with the standard injection without any problems I am on building another at the mo and plan to put the standard injection back on. Padders is spot on any probs are usually just poor conections. the system is an L-JETTRONIC system made under licence from bosch used on 8 valve BMW's, it even copes with a race pipe without the need for any alterations. the yank B1's have different clock covers and an engine air cleaner system on the motor.

just a note but you may need to prime the fuel system before it will start if it has stood for a while. remove the the air filter turn the ignition on and push the airflow meter flap in the airbox and the fuel pump will start and pressurize the system. to make sure it is working have the return pipe to the tank off and the fuel will shoot out at about 36psi (dont look down the pipe when you do it ) but have something to catch it in. put the pipe back onto the tank and press the flap again and you are ready to go.

Thanks for that, i wouldn't have even thought to do that