Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi i recently bought some lumpy cams from a member of the forum. I have slotted cam sprockets which are currently timed up as standard. Has anyone got any advice on how to set them up properly and would it make a vast deal of deference?
Many thanks Vince

Did you just bolt on the std sprockets or dial them in at 110 deg lobe centers with the slotted ones to start with as i recommended ?

Those Jim wells cams had no degree figures so i just dialled them in and got good results with my engine set-up.

You will need to experiment with the lobe center figures to get maximum advantage.

It will be a case of trial and error.

Standard lobe centre for a J model is 105 in and 108 exhaust. ( note this is with CV carbs which have different requirements).
Z1000 R2 is 110 and 110.
APE figures for a comparable upgraded cam on the low end suggests 108 inlet and 110 exhaust for a moderately tuned motor as a mean figure.
Megacycle suggests 108 and 108 for .410 lift cams.
Magic numbers are something like 108 and 109 i believe.

Actual; 103 and 103 gives massive torque low down but wont pull full throttle and is flat in the mid range.
108 and 108 gives mad top end but flat torque and you'd need to rev it to get it moving.

FYI One tooth out on the hyvo is worth 6 degrees when doing the calculations.
This is the same approximately as the change due to the length of the slot in slotted wheels.
The arrow below the line to the arrow just above the line when setting up is at least one tooth or 6 degrees or more.
This means that depending on where exactly you set the lobe centre will determine whether you have torque or mid and top end.
Same cam with arrow below the line and arrow above the line changes the lobe centre calculation from 109 degrees to 103 degrees (see effect above)
This is the variance of one set of cams and using different settings so you can see that yes it does make a big difference.

Some cams wont with with standard pistons, they need to be high comp. Some will not work with other modifications but it really comes down to youre setup and what you want to achieve.

In case you havn't got it from else where here's how to do it.

http://www.debben.co.uk/acatalog/info_46.html

AL

Found these links useful.

http://www.webcamshafts.com/

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_se ... index.html

I would suggest you took it to specialist to degree in the cams.

zorded wrote:Standard lobe centre for a J model is 105 in and 108 exhaust. ( note this is with CV carbs which have different requirements).
Z1000 R2 is 110 and 110.
APE figures for a comparable upgraded cam on the low end suggests 108 inlet and 110 exhaust for a moderately tuned motor as a mean figure.
Megacycle suggests 108 and 108 for .410 lift cams.
Magic numbers are something like 108 and 109 i believe.

Actual; 103 and 103 gives massive torque low down but wont pull full throttle and is flat in the mid range.
108 and 108 gives mad top end but flat torque and you'd need to rev it to get it moving.

FYI One tooth out on the hyvo is worth 6 degrees when doing the calculations.
This is the same approximately as the change due to the length of the slot in slotted wheels.
The arrow below the line to the arrow just above the line when setting up is at least one tooth or 6 degrees or more.
This means that depending on where exactly you set the lobe centre will determine whether you have torque or mid and top end.
Same cam with arrow below the line and arrow above the line changes the lobe centre calculation from 109 degrees to 103 degrees (see effect above)
This is the variance of one set of cams and using different settings so you can see that yes it does make a big difference.

Some cams wont with with standard pistons, they need to be high comp. Some will not work with other modifications but it really comes down to youre setup and what you want to achieve.

In case you havn't got it from else where here's how to do it.

http://www.debben.co.uk/acatalog/info_46.html

AL

Those jim wells cams were originally mine and are three bolt fitting for the early engine which is why i suggested starting at 110 deg which is the early motors std figures.
I ran those at 110 in my Wakisaki and got great results.
Combined with 10-1 wiseco's , ported head etc it clocked 165 + with good smooth power throughout.
They were so good i didn't bother experimenting with the timing.
I only took them out and put std cams in as i started doing 800 +mile round trips to rallys and went for fuel economy.