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A little more advice required please....
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:35 pm
Author: JOHNO23
Evening Guys, following on from the broken cam caps, which I forgot to mention were not put back in the correct positions by who ever rebuilt this before.( I use the term loosely)

I'm looking for a little more advice.I'm still stripping the engine down but have come across a few more potential problems/things to get. The bike is fitted with Boyer electronic ignition. On removing the points cover and then the green plate the ignition is on, underneath I have nothing with which to set the crank up to TDC.I only have a Haynes manual which shows like some of the threads on here regarding timing the valves, a disc on the crank with a T and 1 / 4 to set the crank. Is it normal to have nothing there now with electronic ignition.
Another part missing is the engine sprocket cover. At least there is one in the manual.......but not on my bike
There's more but i'll tell you all about that another time
Cheers
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:43 pm
Author: z1bman
the Boyer electronic ignition uses the original advance + retard but without the points cam this is substituted for a circular disc which comes with the boyer ignition
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:57 pm
Author: JOHNO23
when you say it uses the original advance and retard, do you mean the weights / springs behind the points plate? Mine definately hasn't got any of that. Nothing behind the boyer plate at all.
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:58 pm
Author: zed1015
Boyer micro digital does away with the ATD entirely as it has a built in electronic advance curve.
So no advancer marks.
There should be a mark on the disc though for finding TDC.
If not then the use of a positive stop tool down the plug hole and a degree disc will find true tdc or use a dial gauge on the piston crown while the head is off and then put a tdc mark on the boyers rotor disc.
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:14 pm
Author: z1bman
this is a photo of the boyer branson micro digital ignition. the part you are looking for is the gold coloured disc on the left side of the photo this timing disc replaces the cam from the original advance + retard if you have nothing bolted to the crankshaft you must have this part missing. personally a would chuck it in the bin + fit dyna s

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:29 pm
Author: JOHNO23
Perhaps I haven't explained this that well...
If I didn't have the Boyer how would I set the crank to TDC on 1/4.
I read that i would align the mark on the housing with the line marked "T" on something that rotates on the crank. I don't have anything on the crank with a "T" 1/4 to align up.
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:49 am
Author: z1bman
does it look like this ? if all you can see is a threaded hole in the end of the crank you will require an advancer. minus the cam which opens + closes the points. this cam is replaced by the magnetic rotor which is available from boyer as a separate part

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:03 pm
Author: JOHNO23
Thats exactly what it looks like.......................although not quite as clean
I have a magnetic rotor, but that won't abe any use to set to TDC. is it? Is an advancer the original part with the "T" and 1/4 on it?
Sorry about this.

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:51 pm
Author: z1bman
this is what you should have but you would have to remove the points cam/ advancer springs + bob weights from the advance + retard + fit the boyer rotor to what is left over

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:16 pm
Author: steve r1
hi,z1bmans advice is good ,scrap the boyer and fit dyna s .
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:47 pm
Author: z1bman
the boyer rotor should look like this ( this is for a triumph )

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:39 pm
Author: JOHNO23
OK , I have all the bits I think. so will have to set TDC by one of the ways described above.I just need that clearing up! have uploaded these pics to show what it was like when i took it apart.
And without it all!
What do you think.................
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:47 pm
Author: Pigford
TDC is quite easy - just need a ..... This is a simple bit of kit that screws into the plug hole & stops the piston just short of TDC. You wind the engine forward by hand (gently) until the piston is stopped by the "fixed stop". You need a Degree Wheel fitted to mark the point. Then wind motor backwards until it hits the "fixed stop" again. Note the reading on the Degree Wheel. The mid-point between the 2 x readings is the actual TDC

Simples

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:54 pm
Author: z1bman
johno that looks perfectly ok. the only difference is the rotor on your bike has been bolted directly to the crank + not fitted to the original advancer backplate which has the timing marks already stamped on it. you will need a
TDC gauge to precisely find TDC + a degree disc to set the ignition timing
boyer branson fitting instructions
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00015_.pdf
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:01 pm
Author: JOHNO23
Great.......
Thanks for all your help guys, to what i'm sure are sometimes stupid questions. I'm sure I'll have a few more for you soon, as it all comes apart
