Exhaust Camshaft

[carpy]

When fitting the exhaust camshaft to my Z1000 the Haynes manual says 'so that the mark on the sprocket is aligned with the cylinder head surface'. I presume the mark is this /\ but on its side pointing forwards and you use the top 'line' but when I do that it is a fair way away from the cylinder head surface, more so than what it looks like in the clymer manual. Is this right?

[ADRIAN H]

see links below.



http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... aft+timing

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... lve+timing

Also you can download the kawasaki Z1 service manual, much better than Haynes manual.

http://classickawasaki.se/downloads.asp

[kev edwards]

Thats the right mark, you just have to rotate the cam to the front one tooth at a time before offering it into the chain and you will get there, just take it slow and relax and follow the manual and you will be ok.

[zed1015]

Don't worry if it's slightly above or below the head surface.
Most times they never line up perfectly due to manufacturing intolerances.

[carpy]

Thanks for the replies but I'm still feeling a bit numpty. If I rest the exhaust camshaft in its bearing halves then it stands proud due to the cam lobe for no3 valve, due I line up the pointy end of the mark with the head at this stage as upon tightening the caps down it will move or do I adjust slightly before tightening to enable it to line up after tightening. Sorry for being a pain but I really don't want to balls this up.

[Al]

Viewed from the RHS of the bike;
with the cam shaft laying on the head and the chain in place the timing mark will need to be horizontally slightly below the centreline of the cam core.
As the camshaft rotates down and anti- clockwise into position it will effectively lift the timing mark so that it is level with the upper mating surface of the head. The trick is to gauge how far it will rotate.
Objective is to end up with cam bolted down and the timing mark to be in the location shown in the manual ie. level with the top surface of the head.

Dont rely on the cam cap bolts to pull the cam down onto its bearings against the tension of the valve springs or you will be helicoiling the cam cap bolts at best or breaking cam caps at worst.

Something like this will allow you to fit the cams without the cam caps or bolts and rotate / adjust the chain position and align the marks correctly.






AL

[carpy]

Great, got it now, thanks.

[Garn 1]

Carpy, that's a great jig of Zorded ... that's the clue! You have to have the camshaft down when checking the \/ mark. So, you have to anticipate where it will end up when tightening down. Taking notice of Zed1015's comment...
Its not a highly accurate mark, however, you will know if you are a tooth out.

A few tips I would offer...
1. keep checking that your TDC mark hasn't moved off, during the process.
2. ensure you are not crushing the tacho drive, when pulling down the exhaust cam-shaft.
3. If you haven't got a jig like illustrated.. make sure you are very careful pulling down those 6mm cap bolts.

RegardZ