Z1OwnersClub GB

Firstly Hi from me , not been a member long...Fantastic site..been surfing for a while.
Got myself a Z1000a2(79) Chequered history..
on Thursday..woohoo ! Bike was sitting for a couple of years and needed the carbs set up etc etc...plus non-working starter......so...viewed bike, heard her running (rough on tick-over)Good paint, nice looker... agreed a price. and trailered it home....in TORRENTIAL rain for 3.5hrs.
Couldnt get a spark the next day...thought mmm ( kickstart only remember). so thought let her dry out for a day then investigate a bit more. In the meantime thought I'de change the starter for the included ''spare''...as it turns out it doesn't engage at all, just wirrs away and sticks on ?? intermittently....BUT hey ho look at that later.....
NOT been a good day.....When tightening up L/H casing, I effin used the wrong bolt/ cos the correct one wasn't biting and disturbed a ''previous'' repair and popped a bit outa the crankcases on the screw at 8 o'clock position, tiny 2/3mm, .....ARRRghhhh.
Basically can anyone advise me on the best metal ally repair product...got some JB weld on order .
Been a shit two day ownership , but hey ho can only get better
Cheers the Noo , Mark

You'd best check the rotor (3 x bolts at the back of it) and the fit on the crank, on the lefthand end of the crank - as they're prone to loosening & causing untold damage - to the crank & other stuff adjacent to it

Yeh, cheers Pigford. Iam gonna have a look when I borrow a puller ..may well need a new starter clutch assembly(repair kit), and hopefully that'll cure it.
Ordered some JB weld to hopefully (using that word a lot) ..repair the crankcase.
Is there a reccommended S/clutch repair kit and supplier anyone can suggest ? Cheers, Mark

MJ
Devcon - I repaired the oil gallery on the right hand side of my casing, 6 years ago.
http://www.itw-devcon.co.uk/index.php?/ ... m_putty_f/
Still holding and no oil leaks. Devcon, can be machined, drilled & tapped

Pigford is right, this is what can happen when a rotor, comes dislodged, the casing was obliterated

Ouch ! Best get it looked at then Cheers for the Devcon suggestion, will have a look. Been recommended the JB weld which can also be drilled/tapped etc..Its a tny bit of alloy but obviously will need to be tapped to accept the bolt when repair complete ...tightened VERY carefully

mj66 wrote:Ouch ! Best get it looked at then Cheers for the Devcon suggestion, will have a look. Been recommended the JB weld which can also be drilled/tapped etc..Its a tny bit of alloy but obviously will need to be tapped to accept the bolt when repair complete ...tightened VERY carefully

Blind hole threads must be clear of dirt, old silicon, grease/oil, etc... before whacking a blot into it as you can get "hydraulic lock" and the casing can split or (as is your case) the end pop's off

Blind hole threads must be clear of dirt, old silicon, grease/oil, etc... before whacking a blot into it as you can get "hydraulic lock" and the casing can split or (as is your case) the end pop's off

Cheers, will bear that in mind. Hole had quite a bit of silicone and gunk..glue?...so will give it a thorough clean for sure.

Devcon is the stuff heve repaired crankase mouths and mating faces with it as well as minor threaded holes and if it anything like i discovered the starter clutch issue will be one or more compressed springs half the length they shoud be

Cheers Kieth and co...Will post the findings when I get a look at it this week-end.....Thanks for advice,
Mark.

Devcon +1. I didn't have much luck with JB weld to be honest.
Make sure the case is surgically clean... use brake spray to prepare and ensure the cae is at room temperature.
Good luck. Will