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what parts should I replace in an engine rebuild?

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:20 am
Author: malmojoe
I'm just about to rebuild my first Z1 engine and want to get all the bits ready so I can just steam through it ;)
What should I replace and where can I get a good deal?

Also I need a complete set of bolts which hold the casings together. Can I get them and where from?

many thanks peeps

Glyn

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:46 am
Author: redzed78
I'm just about to start the same job so I'll be interested to see what people think. Good luck :)

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:00 pm
Author: paul doran
Glyn have You checked the cyclinder's for wear
and how was the bike running before You stripped it down
as the amount of wear in the bores will determine what You need


You will need a full set of gaskets for a start
Z Power or Z1 Enterprises
I am sure the fastners can be sourced elsewhere as these will cost a fortune at Z Power

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:00 pm
Author: CAT3
You'll need all the usual stuff like a full gasket set, but also seals like the one for the clutch push-rod, output gearbox shaft & the crankshaft seal behind the points.
I'm assuming you've checked all the valves, guides, pistons/bores/rings, gearbox bearings, camshaft & shell bearings, etc ?
I'd also fit a new cam chain whilst the engine is in bits & maybe the cam chain guides & rollers.

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:27 pm
Author: malmojoe
Im actually going to do 3 engines at once. :lol:
Yes in at the deep end. One was my daily rider, which was recently honed and ran perfectly until I let the oil go low.. ahem..
Another is a a well used engine but was running.
the third is put together out of scavenged bits.

I will get to the heads and cylinders eventually, but for now have found a cheap site in the US for bearings. This is really the thing. I remember Padders saying to replace the bearing on the output shaft. Thats a big one. Then there is another large bearing and 2 needle bearings - shall I change them too?

    92045-1028
    92045-021
    2 @ 92046-031
    then the cluch bearing 92046-028


What about the crank bearings??

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:01 pm
Author: pertonpc
Hi Malmo

Not sure we can trust you to have three in bits at the same time if you can't keep the oil level between the two marks mister :lol:

Seriously though - I have just stuck a full strip down, inspect & rebuild article by Dave Marsden from Z Power on my rebuild website if it is any help to you.

Have a look if you want -

http://www.zedrider.co.uk/magazine-articles.html

Cheers from Mark

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:13 pm
Author: malmojoe
thanks Mark, thats a great site you've got there. I'll be spending some time on there for sure.
Willi try to be more carefull - I was tearing down to Bristol for a night out with my mates and forgot to check the oil. high revs + low oil = big mess.

cheers
Glyn

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:37 pm
Author: Mark Stratton
Get one of these. Best fiver your going to spend.

https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanag ... cts_id=107

I wish I had one before my rebuild as it would have saved me loads of time at the local dealers going through their microfish thingy

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:25 pm
Author: Rich
Anything that is beyond the service limit. I suggest you get a proper Kawasaki manual before starting

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:38 pm
Author: pertonpc
Malmo

You can also view the proper Kawasaki Z1 Service Manual and the (web version)exploded parts diagrams used in the Z Power book on the manuals and info page of me website if you need em chicken.

Mark xx

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:19 pm
Author: Dark Skies
When I did the rebuild on my KZ1000 M1 I took the position that I didn't want to have to strip the engine down a second time just to save myself the price of a bearing that was OK at the time.

So I replaced:

All of the rubber o'rings and oil seals and, obviously the gaskets.
All of the bearings - even though they were in pretty good shape.

It's best to buy as much of this as kits rather than individually as Kawasaki charges mount up. I have had no problems with pattern parts.


Took the opportunity to have the crank bearings replaced with new conrods and had it balanced.

The gears were all in good shape - I left them as was.

New cam chain and new camchain tensioner mechanism.

I also had a rebore and hone job done (I have the early J engine so it had issues). Mind you, that last bit hasn't worked out so well for me at the moment (problems bedding in the rings / oil consumption) - I'm hoping that I can ride my way out of that problem.

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:33 pm
Author: GEZ635
I admire you for having a go Joe, but if you really have to ask what bits you should change then maybe you need an experienced head with you to check everything as you strip them down?. That way you will learn how to check bores, piston ring wear, crank wear, gear box back lash etc, etc.I know we all start somewhere but you dont want to replace parts that are ok and miss parts that are worn.

YO

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:50 pm
Author: Hobbo
Guyzz

Gasket set vesrah if poss £60/£70
Cam ends £20
Oil seal kit £25
Full set cam wheels £400
Cam chain £30
Oil +filter £30

Total £575.00 per engine


Plus maybe more when you check all clearances ( Ball park prices )


Not fixed just a guide price for ya

phil