Z1OwnersClub GB

I'm putting an old trail bike back ( XL 185) on the road , it's been laid up 15 years. Tank looked all right till I had it blast cleaned and looks like paint was all that was keeping petrol in- half a dozen tiny pinholes , on both sides of the base.
This is going to be my "fishing bike" going offroad trout fishing in the Highlands. Not a pristine restoration.
I was thinking of degreasing it thoroughly, using some Araldite Rapid Steel on the outside , and then getting some of that Caswell tank sealer on the inside.
But am I wasting my time
Presumably welding isn't likely to be easy as the metal is thin and difficult to work and get a petroltight seal. Brazing similarly.
Anyone found any other solutions ? second-hand ones are rare.

I had a rusty tank with only one pin hole but sealed the tank with POR 15. It is good stuff !!

you can try lead loading if you want to do the job yourself but you must make sure the tank is completely cleaned + de gassed. to de gas clean it first then run a piece of hose from your car exhaust into the filler cap of you bike tank leave it running for about 15 minutes this should neutralise all the flammable gasses

guide to lead loading

http://freespace.virgin.net/tommy.sandham/leading.htm

Pin holes are a sign of rust, usually a few pin holes on the outside can mean lots of rust on the inside, and not worth repairing

Some choices are brazing as you mentioned, lead loading or soldering, hollow the area out and make sure you take the metal back bright and clean before any work

Remember to purge the tank of any petrol fumes before or you might get a big bang

Gray, I think if you can get one of the newer 'ethanol proof' sealers/liners you should be ok.
I know there have been various rust removal solutions posted before, but I find this stuff amazing...... just leave it in long enough. http://www.cwylde.co.uk/product.php?xProd=2262

Oh and as mentioned use sealer as a secondary measure! be sure to use one designed for the new higher ethanol percentage in petrol!

Beat me to it GB!

jUST REPAIRED A TANK PLASTIC METAL OUTSIDE AND POR15 DID THE JOB

Flying Tiger wrote:Beat me to it GB!

Not called 'Quick Draw GB' for nothing!

Only one way to do it in my eyes.
Chop out the rust and weld in a new piece.
Any good welder should be able to do it and it will not leak.
All these sealers are ultmately a short term solution that will not stop the rot.

zed1015 wrote:Only one way to do it in my eyes.
Chop out the rust and weld in a new piece.
Any good welder should be able to do it and it will not leak.
All these sealers are ultmately a short term solution that will not stop the rot.

That was my thughts on this, no point covering up rust it allways finds its way to the surface, would a XL250 TANK FIT? or a plastic Moto x one.?
if you have want Gray send it up to me and I will fix it for you.

plenty of good ideas there lads - thanks
I'm not a welder so I can't tell just by looking and feeling if something's too far gone. My amateur level of expertise would be if you can get a hand thru it, it's probably scrap.
(Some would say if it was a H~#*a it was scrap already)
Can I post it to you Davy for your expert opinion on it? I've given it a coating of red oxide in the meantime till I decided what to do. PM me with an address if the offer's still on.

On my old LC I used JB weld to fill in a pin prick hole and it was still okay after 4 years. I rubbed down the area until it was shiny and ensured it was spotlessly clean and applied the JB weld, I left it for a few days to ensure it was dry. I would also put POR 15 in it so that any rust inside doesnt get into your carbs.

Rob

You have a PM gray.

There you go Gray, brought back from the dead.your tea bag tank.