getting the rotor off?

[malmojoe]

any ideas how I can get it off without the 'special tool'?

many thanks

[zed1015]

Z9/1000 motor?
Use the rear wheel spindle or swingarm spindle .
They have the same thread as the puller and will do the same job.

[malmojoe]

thanks Zed1015 I'll give it a bash tomorrow.

[Al]

If it a Z1r use the centre bolt from the top yolk.
If its a J type, borrow mine.

AL

[malmojoe]

thanks for the offer Al, its a Z1. I'm stripping it to remove the shrapnel left from a piston which took out the valves. Any other tools/trick I may need once I've split the cases - whole new world to me.

[zed1015]

Any other tools/trick I may need once I've split the cases - whole new world to me.

No other special tools needed really if it's a simple stripdown, you can even leave the clutch on the input shaft if you haven't got a clutch holding tool to aid the removal of the center nut.
When splitting the cases look for the m8 threaded holes fore and aft in the lower crankcase,
Screw some long bolts in to these once all the case bolts have been removed, they will press the cases apart and will avoid any of the butchery accociated with old screwdrivers and pry bars.

[malmojoe]

Thanks for the tips. I am going to start a project thread soon, since I have now completely stripped the bike to a bare frame and a box of parts

should have just bought a litre of oil

[Pigford]

Use one of those "tie-down" straps to hold the rotor/crank still whilst doing the bolt up - this will alleviate any damage to it I do this & tie the end off to the foot rest as an anchor

[Garn 1]

Maimojoe, watch out for the small woodruff key when you pull the rotor off, They are often sheared off so neatly, you have trouble seeing it.
I use an automotive filter extractor to hold the stator.

When splitting the cases, ensure you have removed all bolts.. check then check again.
RegardZ

[neilbarrett]

rotor pullers about £15 from z power

[malmojoe]

thanks for all the tips. It came off pretty easily using the center bolt from the forks - the rear axle was too big. Does that mean I've got the wrong rotor? or even the wrong crank? I have got a (slightly) beefed up swing arm (possibly off a later model?) so maybe not a standard spindle??
Anyway, the woodruff key and taper was fine, but one of the spring loaded cylindical bits popped out, hope that isn't something to worry about and I can get it in when I've got a bit more time.
Been painting a smaller/warmer room to work in so will split the cases next time.

thanks again
Glyn

[gray]

the spring loaded cylindrical bits ( there will be 3 chromed rollers and 3 springs behind them) ) are part of the starter clutch mechanism - they grip the crank in 1 direction when they're spun by the starter motor when you press the button, but let go as the crank speeds up to idle. When reinstalling , make sure they're sitting correctly and refit the rotor with a twisting action to make them retreat into their recesses