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Oil drain plug siezed

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andyb1962
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Oil drain plug siezed

#1 PostAuthor: andyb1962 » Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:57 pm

Removed oil filter and drained it this morning.
I was hoping this would drain the sump as i could see signs of damage to the drain plug. However i guessed wrong :oops:
oil drain plug is seized and will not come out. i do not have a bike lift so working on the floor is no fun. Any ideas gents.
my last resort will be to refit oil filter top up oil and take it to a dealer.
Any body know part number for a z1000 a2 drain plug as i will need a new one when this stubborn one decides to vacate its position. Do z power sell them?
thanks
Andy :wink:


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#2 PostAuthor: Taffus » Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:07 pm

Had mine very tight before and used abreaker bar
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#3 PostAuthor: Z1parR » Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:16 pm

If its already knackered i'd attack it with stilsons , that'll undo it :wink:
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#4 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Dec 03, 2011 2:48 pm

try knocking a 16mm socket onto the bolt. when the socket is fully located attach a ratchet OR a breaker bar + while holding a steady pressure tap the socket with a hammer until it becomes loose

part no for genuine drain bolt + still available 92001-1183 about £15

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#5 PostAuthor: andyb1962 » Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:09 pm

ive tried the above, ubfortuatley nothing the ******* will not shift. As a last resort i removed complete RHS exhaust to allow access for stilsons.
So ive tugged pushed pulled tapped and hammered GOD ITS TIGHT!
Now i have a chewed immovable drain plug.
Next i may have to apply some heat to the sump itself. anybody done this apart from the obvious fire risk any other precautions i should be aware of.

If that doesnt work i am completely out of ideas..........................fingers crossed

:x :x :x :x
Andy :wink:





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#6 PostAuthor: tlc » Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:16 pm

It`s very easy to melt the ally even with a blowtorch.

Let`s be careful out there !
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#7 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:19 pm

If you have a welder weld an old spanner or a flat washer over the knut then run some weld to the sides of the the sump plug then weld a big nut onto the washer with a bit of luck the heat from the welding providing its not a alloy one of course, should shift the bugger..Good luck...A rattle gun works wonders as well when you have welded a big nut on,by the way that threads 14mm same as spark plugs,so if threads are screwed up one of the helicoil sets for sparkplugs would work well..!!!!Paul J
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#8 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:49 pm

1st off - DON'T PANIC

As you're in this deep - I don't know when you last had the sump off, but I'd advise removing it and you can check the oil pump screen as these can block over the years :!:

Then you can easily get the sump plug out :wink:
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Re: Oil drain plug siezed

#9 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:11 pm

andyb1962 wrote:Removed oil filter and drained it this morning.
I was hoping this would drain the sump as i could see signs of damage to the drain plug. However i guessed wrong :oops:
oil drain plug is seized and will not come out. i do not have a bike lift so working on the floor is no fun. Any ideas gents.
my last resort will be to refit oil filter top up oil and take it to a dealer.
Any body know part number for a z1000 a2 drain plug as i will need a new one when this stubborn one decides to vacate its position. Do z power sell them?
thanks


Try a product call 'Rost Off ice' from Wurth.
Spray it on & it drops the temp to about -30 degrees C - Has the same effect as applying heat without the hassle of setting fire to oil etc.
I've used it with success a number of times - well worth a shot!

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#10 PostAuthor: greenZ » Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:35 pm

had the same problem on a bike i just got,tried everything had to take off sump to remove it ,has mark said that makes it a lot easier

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#11 PostAuthor: Z1parR » Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:40 pm

Yep what Piggy said , as it gives you the chance to clean the oil pump screen as well . Bloody bolt must have been dogged up tight :shock:
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#12 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Sat Dec 03, 2011 6:28 pm

Last time i took that off it was only nipped up with a ring spanner, maybe the guy who got it off me has taken it off and done it up tighter.

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#13 PostAuthor: andyb1962 » Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:42 pm

Pigford wrote:1st off - DON'T PANIC

:wink:


Trying not too :lol: :lol:

plan is leave it while next weekend as the 'F' word dominates tomorrow.

Its either remove sump, which means other exhaust off. RHS was easy so hopefully LHS will be aswell. Followed by/Or apply a little heat to one side candlewax to other followed by welding on a 22mm nut and "borrowing" a
impact wrench to pursuade it.
thanks for the advice guys......................................i'll sleep on it till next weekend. :(
Andy :wink:





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#14 PostAuthor: andyb1962 » Sat Dec 03, 2011 10:23 pm

kev edwards wrote:Last time i took that off it was only nipped up with a ring spanner, maybe the guy who got it off me has taken it off and done it up tighter.


dont worry about it kev shit happens!




















Normally to me :!:
Andy :wink:





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#15 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:15 pm

if you have removed the exhaust i would remove the fuel tank + lie the bike on its side with some old cushions or blankets to protect it. then try to loosen it with a centre punch + a good hammer don't be too scared of giving it a good whack with the hammer as the sump is surprisingly quite strong. just make sure you don't miss with the hammer + make sure the punch is located about 3mm inn from the outer edge of the bolt + hold the punch at 45 degrees. even if you remove the sump it will be more difficult to hold the sump + remove the bolt


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