Sheared exhaust Manfold bolts

PAULJAC47 · #1 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:19 pm

Guessed this would happen,three sheared bolts on my cylinder head block
Soaked them in plus gas for a week,managed to get heavily corroded collects off plus zorst,there is a stub left proud about 5mm,going to slip mild steel washer over get nut on whats left on thread and arc weld on,hope this will give enough then to get out with socket also going to try some screw on type extractors,if that fails may try to soften stubs and drill out with left hand drill.my question is how can i shield the alloy on the head from the arc? wet cloth? asbestos type material? i reckon the stubs are high tensile steel have tried to drill one bolt i got out no joy,what temp would you need to get stubs to to soften ?cherry red then air cool?

Happy days!!! Paul J

#2 PostAuthor: **Taffus** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:30 pm

Hi Paul
Had this done by a mate on my GPz and there was no need to shield the head from the arc. The heat from the weld pool helped break the seal on the stud and it cam out relatively easily with not too much effort.

This was of course on a Kawasaki, if it's on that Suzuki thing Id be careful as the alloy is probably made compressed Cadbury diary milk foil wrappers

PAULJAC47 · #3 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:34 pm

If it was a Kwack i would be shitting meself not to cock up,as it is not tooooooo fussed :roll:

jimmock · #4 PostAuthor: **jimmock** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:44 pm

Sounds like a feckin' nightmare.

WORST thing that can go wrong is header studs shearing.

I think the drilling out is the LAST resort, as this will most likely end up going out to 8mm from 6mm or helicoils.

The heat method is the first option I'd say.

Jimmock.

PJ · #5 PostAuthor: PJ » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:21 pm

Heavy Handed Bugger

PAULJAC47 · #6 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:39 pm

Thanks PJ,HA HA Ha,found this link though good info a fun filled weekend awaits!!!

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki ... _fasteners

ac/dc · #7 PostAuthor: **ac/dc** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:46 pm

Can you weld another stud on to the one sitting a little proud ?
And perhaps put a couple of bolts onto the welded stud and wind it out ?
Or am i talking rubbish as usual

Pigford · #8 PostAuthor: **Pigford** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:58 pm

ac/dc wrote:Can you weld another stud on to the one sitting a little proud ?
And perhaps put a couple of bolts onto the welded stud and wind it out ?
Or am i talking rubbish as usual

Sounds good - but welding a nut on is usually enuff to free it up & wind it off :wink:

jimmock · #9 PostAuthor: **jimmock** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:21 pm

I'm assuming it is 6mm studs that have sheared ??

How about this....

Weld an 8mm stud onto the 6mm sheared stud. Then weld a 10mm stud onto the 8mm stud. Then weld a 12mm stud onto the 10mm stud. Then weld a 14mm stud onto the 12mm stud. Then weld a 16mm BOLT onto the 14mm stud. You would then be able to use a 24mm socket on the 16mm bolt.

SIMPLE!!!

Glad I could be of some help to you in a time of need.

Jimmock

wilsonsjw11 · #10 PostAuthor: **wilsonsjw11** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:31 pm

PaulJac
Do not try and drill the damaged stud if welding method fails just pop it into a machine shop where they can set the head at the right angle on a drill bed and tackle it.They may even spark erode it.
Regards
Steve

PAULJAC47 · #11 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:51 pm

jimmock wrote:I'm assuming it is 6mm studs that have sheared ??

How about this....

Weld an 8mm stud onto the 6mm sheared stud. Then weld a 10mm stud onto the 8mm stud. Then weld a 12mm stud onto the 10mm stud. Then weld a 14mm stud onto the 12mm stud. Then weld a 16mm BOLT onto the 14mm stud. You would then be able to use a 24mm socket on the 16mm bolt.

SIMPLE!!!

Glad I could be of some help to you in a time of need.

Jimmock

And heres me always thought the Scots were good engineers???? :lol:

#12 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:47 pm

Paul, having it spark eroded should be fairly cheap, compared to the cost involved in putting a badly drilled stud right, but I agree with the others, welding a nut on should do the trick.

PS, I'm not saying that you can't drill straight. :shock:

PAULJAC47 · #13 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:57 pm

Had some suucess with this today the weld method worked on one stud and got a good purchase on other two enough to get one turning b4 it sheared flush!! the other i welded a washer, to then a scrap spanner again sheared flush,the upshot is the bolts now seem softer i have got a good central 2.5 mm pilot in them b4 i have to remove the head, will try some left hand drills,
see how it goes..Paul J

PJ · #14 PostAuthor: PJ » Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:51 pm

PAULJAC47 wrote:Had some suucess with this today the weld method worked on one stud and got a good purchase on other two enough to get one turning b4 it sheared flush!! the other i welded a washer, to then a scrap spanner again sheared flush,the upshot is the bolts now seem softer i have got a good central 2.5 mm pilot in them b4 i have to remove the head, will try some left hand drills,
see how it goes..Paul J

If you need a hand or someone to watch and take the pi*s - giz a shout

PAULJAC47 · #15 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:35 pm

Thanks Pj You are the Man!!!

Sheared exhaust Manfold bolts

Sheared exhaust Manfold bolts

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