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Engine back to life (hopefully) now with pics!!

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redzee
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Engine back to life (hopefully) now with pics!!

#1 PostAuthor: redzee » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:20 pm

Gents,
My 1000J motor has not turned for 17 years!!!!!!. I have put a spanner on the end of the crank and I have inched it a small amount quite easily (with plugs still in). Any tips on what to put down the plug holes or what to look out for before I give it a full rotation by hand? At the very least the rings are going to be stuck in the grooves I would imagine. Top end strip maybe?
Cheers
redzee
Last edited by redzee on Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Eight valve grunt.
Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.

Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,

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#2 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:27 pm

You might well be surprised ,i have seen Z motors fire up after years of lying dormant,a good dose of Redex into the pots,let it soak well and keep coaxing the motor with plugs out,Good luck Paul J
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#3 PostAuthor: sweptail » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:28 pm

plugs out and a little oil down the holes :)

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#4 PostAuthor: debben1 » Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:26 am

Other possible problems of starting and engine after a long period of being parked up are the valve stems, if any corrosion is present then the first time an engine is run this corrosion tears into the guide causing excessive wear or the valve seizes into the valve guide and then the guide itself is pushed out, if the engine has been parked up and the exhaust or inlet ports have been exposed this is far more likely. Valve springs also suffer from being parked up as some of them would of been compressed (which ever valve is open), this long period of the spring being compressed causes the valve seat pressure to drop (due to reduced spring tension). Always worth a quick inspection, the damage caused can be costly to repair. Regards, Steve

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#5 PostAuthor: Pigford » Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:18 pm

Blimey - where you been Romeo :P

You still got that Z1R frame you were gonna go classic racing on :?:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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redzee
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#6 PostAuthor: redzee » Wed Sep 21, 2011 8:11 pm

Thanks to all for your advice,
Good point about the valve stems. Whats the best way to remove this corrosion with the head assembled. I can see them through the ports and the exhaust ones could do with a wipe over. Also, do you think the guides would be pushed out if I'm gently coaxing the motor by hand?
Cheers
Eight valve grunt.

Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.



Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,

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#7 PostAuthor: Pigford » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:12 pm

I think it maybe a case of cams out - head off strip it down to make sure :|

New valve springs & stem seals aren't too expensive :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#8 PostAuthor: z1bman » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:37 pm

i would say the carbs + fuel left in the tank will be your first priority before attempting to get it running

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redzee
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#9 PostAuthor: redzee » Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:36 pm

Pigford wrote:I think it maybe a case of cams out - head off strip it down to make sure :|

New valve springs & stem seals aren't too expensive :wink:


I'll have to build myself up to that job, I've only stripped two strokes before :oops:
I think you have just echoed the thoughts that I have been trying to ignore
Last edited by redzee on Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Eight valve grunt.

Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.



Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,

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redzee
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#10 PostAuthor: redzee » Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:40 pm

z1bman wrote:i would say the carbs + fuel left in the tank will be your first priority before attempting to get it running


Done the tank last weekend, carbs off for ultrasonic cleaning this weekend.
Cheers
Eight valve grunt.

Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.



Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,

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#11 PostAuthor: debben1 » Fri Sep 23, 2011 4:01 pm

Hello RedZee, stripping it down would be the safest and most thorough method. you can also replace the springs then too, Pigford, just started progressing with the Z1R framed project, how is your sprinter doing :)

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#12 PostAuthor: Pigford » Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:07 pm

Steve, its been run up, but needs a bit of "setting-up" now :| Didn't want to rush it for this year :wink:






Sorry to hi-jack your thread Redzee :oops:
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redzee
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#13 PostAuthor: redzee » Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:13 am

debben1 wrote:Hello RedZee, stripping it down would be the safest and most thorough method. you can also replace the springs then too, Pigford, just started progressing with the Z1R framed project, how is your sprinter doing :)


Hi debben,
Do you think i'ts worth fitting new rings and giving it a quick hone while I'm at it then?
Engine has only done 11,000 miles from new, but I'm concerned about bore corrosion and sticking rings from standing. These motors used oil from new as I'm sure you know. Anyone else have an opinion on this?
Cheers all.
Col (redzee)
Eight valve grunt.

Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.



Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,

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#14 PostAuthor: tlc » Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:46 am

My Spanish J had been standing for more than 10 years, although the PO said he had run it up from time to time.

I just fired it up to see and it`s been fine since. I do reckon the valve stem seals want doing though!

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redzee
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#15 PostAuthor: redzee » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:00 pm

Gents,
I got the engine out yesterday mainly because I needed to touch up the powder coating on the frame. Would it be better to re-build the bike then do the top end (as suggested here) with the motor in the frame or would it be best to tackle it on the bench. Has anyone tried both and got a preference? I could knock up a supporting frame to keep it steady if needed. Some pics below and notice the spider living in the exhaust port!
Cheers
redzee


Image

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Image
Eight valve grunt.

Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.



Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,


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