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mikey
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#1 PostAuthor: mikey » Tue Mar 16, 2010 4:09 pm

Any ideas as to get this sprocket bolt undone on a l ltd 1000 it just wont budge,
tried impact driver, bit scafold pole over the rachet handle,
not tried heat yet as dont want to damage the oil seal behind itImage
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Gus
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#2 PostAuthor: Gus » Tue Mar 16, 2010 4:28 pm

Socket on T bar.

Scaffold pole on the T bar arm.

Apply force to the scaffold pole.

While applying force to scaffold pole hit the end of the T bar with a lump/sledge hammer.
"Set the GRINDER on it"

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#3 PostAuthor: Big Fluff » Tue Mar 16, 2010 4:29 pm

An air impact gun & socket is the only way sometimes Mikey.
Is it rideable.? If so, nip it down to your local Krap Fit and get them to undo it. :roll:
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#4 PostAuthor: mikey » Tue Mar 16, 2010 5:00 pm

Ok cheers guys be weekend before get another go
no will not driveable im afraid
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#5 PostAuthor: hillbilly » Tue Mar 16, 2010 5:22 pm

dont hit it to hard,you might damage the gears or seals or worst still,crack the cases.i wouldnt try heat on it as it will only heat the head of bolt up,causing it to snap off,when turned,soak it with good penetrating oil for a few days,then a long bar on it. :wink:
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#6 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:39 pm

Hi Mikey, i know its an old fashioned item but have you tried plus gas?then try tightening bolt! then try undoing.worth a try Paul J...
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#7 PostAuthor: mikey » Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:23 pm

Thanks hillbilly and paul will try all ideas
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#8 PostAuthor: chrisu » Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:34 pm

I'm with Will - a rattle gun will shift it with less risk of shearing anything.

agree though to plusgas it first.

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#9 PostAuthor: Pigford » Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:20 pm

Last resort, weld a larger size nut on it (the heat may free it up) and then get a humungous socket set on the b*****d and get young Terry to jump up and down on it, whilst you're holding the scaffold pole :wink:
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#10 PostAuthor: pertonpc » Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:30 pm

I had to get an airgun on my 650 one - which looked a lot less corroded than that one - even then they had to turn it up to the second setting before it would give. They are impressive tools!!

I believe you can also buy a nutsplitter if things get desperate. Think it works like a clamp and will crack the nut open as it tightens - last resort perhaps?

Cheers from Mark

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#11 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:44 pm

Its a bolt on this sprocket Mark, a nut splitter would render it useless...
PAULJAC47,,,,,"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."

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#12 PostAuthor: kawabjorn » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:01 am

Hi, I´m a new member and this is my first try to contribute.

A significant part of the friction originates from the contact between bolt head and the washer. Is it possible to get rid of the washer by grinding it away? If so, you will only need to override the friction in the thread.
This operation will naturally destroy the washer and maybe also the front sprocket but it is soft to the shaft and bearing and sealing since no heat or hammering is involved.

Regards / Bjorn

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#13 PostAuthor: mikey » Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:28 pm

Guess what guys?...............Before i started work today thought id just give it a little try soaked it in 3 in 1 oil last night see if i could ease it off a bit and drop some more oil on it and it came undone :shock:
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#14 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:59 pm

Good news Mikey!!
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#15 PostAuthor: steve f » Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:51 pm

mikey wrote:Guess what guys?...............Before i started work today thought id just give it a little try soaked it in 3 in 1 oil last night see if i could ease it off a bit and drop some more oil on it and it came undone :shock:
You been reading your HAYNES manual ?
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