Page 1 of 2
J Wiring question
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:21 pm
Author: Al
I have had to do a major make over on the J loom.
Many spare wires removed and the rats nest of wires for the ignition relay mod now bound into the loom. New plugs, contacts, heat proof binding on alternator wires, new alternator wires etc etc etc.
Question i have is; does anyone know where would be the best place to insert an on/off switch for the dash lights so they are not draining the battery during daytime riding.
I cant see from the wiring diagram where would be the best place to interrupt the supply to dash lights without affecting essential supplies to necessary components.
I bet its not that simple!!!!
Any help appreciated.
AL
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:01 pm
Author: Pigford
You gonna be running a
total loss system then Al
If you're stuffed, I can scan my Clymer manual on Monday
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:18 pm
Author: Big Fluff
Al, if a paltry 13.6 watts (4 x 3.4w) is draining your battery then there's something seriously wrong somewhere
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 7:04 pm
Author: Al
You gonna be running a total loss system then Al
If you're stuffed, I can scan my Clymer manual on Monday
Cheers Piggy got two diagrams both double Dutch.
Al, if a paltry 13.6 watts (4 x 3.4w) is draining your battery then there's something seriously wrong somewhere
Thanks Will a good point well made but;
On daytime riding there is
Speedo illum 1.7w
Speedo illum 1.7w
Odometer light 2w
Fuel gauge light 2w
Tach illum 1.7w
Tach illum 1.7w
Pilot headlight 4w
Tail light 5w
Tail light 5w
Headlight filament 55w
Total = 80w
with high beam there is also;
High filament +5w (60W as opposed to 55w)
High beam warning 3.4w
Total 88 w
This is without indicators and their warning lights and making no allowance for running the ignition system and all this in a perfect world with no resistances in wiring or losses across connectors and a perfect alternator and R/R unit.
Really i wanted to put a higher value dip and main beam in, in which case something has to give and as you can see from the photo, just to turn on the headlight it's like Blackpool illuminations.
Guess its not that simple after all.
AL
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:13 pm
Author: Ginger Bear
Al, This may be another route. I believe these HID systems use a lot less power than standard & look pretty trick too!
https://www.harris-performance.com/webs ... llast.html
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:46 pm
Author: Al
I know this topic has been done to death previously but i have had issues with charging etc. and am fired up on this little diversion.
Many thanks GB i have just read this and am wondering if it does what it says and means it!!
Xenon Plus H4 premium
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /XENON.jpg
From;
Scroll down a bit
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /bulbs.php
It seems to suggest that you dont need the expensive ballast kit and or any alterations to the wiring to get just a little more up front.
People i ride with have mentioned a dim yellow glow in their mirrors and if that what they see then the car drivers cant see much more than that!!
Will give them a call early week to see what they say.
AL
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:20 pm
Author: Ginger Bear
Sounds like a cheap fix if your problem is being a little dim (no offence), but won't reduce the load on your electrics.
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:36 pm
Author: Mick Hayward
Hi
With everything switched on the alternator should give enough power to break even and still put something into the battery to replace what is lost through startring.
Cheers
Mick
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:44 pm
Author: Ginger Bear
Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:00 pm
Author: tlc
Al. 88watts = 7 amps.
That`s nothing and has been said your alternator ought to cover that with ease !
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:35 am
Author: Ginger Bear
Option 3 (in my book anyway)
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/g03-gene ... 890-0.html
If you aint producing enough power in the first place, this should sort you out. Quite good value as well!
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:07 am
Author: Rich
Turn the lights off at the right hand handlebar switch. If you don't have a european model I would put a switch in the earths after they join in the main loom.
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:21 am
Author: Big Fluff
Just an additional note here guys...........
If anyone has ever replaced the wires from their alternator with 'conventional' copper multi-strand wiring, that will give the symptoms Al describes. It is imperative that steel multi-strand wires are soldered in, though even the soldered joints can also add to resistance.
Will.
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 12:40 pm
Author: kev edwards
You Could source silver wires,more conductive than copper or steel,tad more exspensive though.
Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 12:53 pm
Author: Taffus
I am using HID's on my car. There is an initial current spike but normal running 6k will run at 32W =2.6A where as a normal 55W is about 4.5A.
I have a set of 2 HIds to in the GPz B1, when I get the time.....
