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leaking carb bowles

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stephen lavery
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leaking carb bowles

#1 PostAuthor: stephen lavery » Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:29 pm

fitted new gaskets to bowles but still leaking. seems to be coming from bowle joint. what gaskets make are best to use.
stevie the babarian

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paul doran
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#2 PostAuthor: paul doran » Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:15 pm

Stephen are they proper carb gasket's?
way too many Zeds

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Pigford
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#3 PostAuthor: Pigford » Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:20 pm

Sometimes (if they are fibre gaskets, not rubber) they need to be saturated to make them expand and flexible enough to take up the contours of the bowls & seal proper-like :wink:

Try taking them off, soak them in petrol :?:
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#4 PostAuthor: GEZ635 » Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:30 pm

If they leaked with the old gaskets, and still leak with the new ones, I would look elsewhere.Do they all leak? If it is one only, are the gasket faces damaged? Are you float heights set wrong allowing far too much fuel into the bowl and causing fuel leakage? I had a z900 recently where the fuel tap was faulty and would not shut the fuel off properly causing the carbs to flood.On first inspection I thought it was gaskets so check everything.
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AL MARSHALL
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bowls leak

#5 PostAuthor: AL MARSHALL » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:18 pm

also make sure it is the bowls leaking and not the tee pieces leaking down and around the bowls,it looks just like the bowl gasket leaking.
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stephen lavery
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#6 PostAuthor: stephen lavery » Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:45 pm

the gaskets are fiber type from nrp carbs. will soak them and try again. old ones leaked a bit but new ones are worse. t peice seems ok deff the bowl,float heights ok. wll also check fuel tap. if this fails were would i get the rubber gaskets?
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#7 PostAuthor: phil churchett » Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:47 pm

Ensure you don't overtighten the screws on the bowl.
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#8 PostAuthor: paulmceleney » Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:50 am

I had this problem turn out it was a faulty fuel tap

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02GF74
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Re: leaking carb bowles

#9 PostAuthor: 02GF74 » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:14 pm

stephen lavery wrote:fitted new gaskets to bowles but still leaking. seems to be coming from bowle joint. what gaskets make are best to use.


did you ever sort this?

To odentify the point of leakage, take a plastic bottole containing tlacum powder and squeeze it so the powder if forced out nad covers the bowls.

the fuel will wash away the talc

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#10 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:08 pm

Sometimes you think the fuel is coming from thye gaskets but i have had the small brass tubes on the bowl bottoms split,have repaired with soft solder,worth a look Paul J...
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#11 PostAuthor: m1ks » Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:32 pm

If you're undoubtedly leaking from the gaskets then as mentioned before soak if they're fibre and refit.
However, you need to recheck your float height, check for punctured floats and replace your needle valves and valve seats, these can look OK but be ridged badly enough to leak fuel through.
While stood even with fuel on the needle valve and floats shouldn't allow the level to creep past the gasket seat.
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#12 PostAuthor: stephen lavery » Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:40 pm

fitted new fuel tap repair kit float hight set at 23mm floats not punctured, new float valves & seats. also checked float height with carb tool (fittment screwd into drain screw on bowls with clear tube) reading correct. No 1&2 still leaking from bowl joint. will check brass tubes.
stevie the babarian

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02GF74
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#13 PostAuthor: 02GF74 » Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:03 pm

brass tube - I had one split - I spent an age faffing around with the needle etc.

read this:
http://z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... ght=solder

the way to test, if not described in the above. is to put finger over one end and blow into the hose with petrol in the bowl - you will see bubbles if split.

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Garn 1
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#14 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Wed Jan 27, 2010 6:05 pm

StephenL, it's unlikely to be a split tube as mentioned by PaulJac & 02GF. The split tube drains the bowl and lets the petrol continually drain out the overflow. It will not let the fuel get to the gasket level.

I think you will find it will be a needle & seat problem. Where the needle does not cut the fuel flow at the seat. The setting of 23 mm sounds good.
Something I have only found of late, before buying a new needle and seat, is to clean the seat with a piece of sharpened peg-wood or a wooded skewer. This often removes the accumulated crud on the seat.

You often see small indentations on the two outermost bowls where the handle-end of a screw-driver has been tapping to help the needle seat.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4


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