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Z1B Alan
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#1 PostAuthor: Z1B Alan » Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:57 pm

After many problems carb related the latest is the bike is very difficult to start from cold. This morning the bike wouuld not start, The battery is good with the starter spinning over well so I tried the kickstart still no better only after 10 mins trying did it fire up on 2 cylinders which seems to be the norm. Tonight it fired up no problem first prod on the starter :twisted: the battery is always connected to an Optimate when not in use, the coils are new ,new Dyna S, carbs cleaned , fuel height set, carbs balanced so I don't know where to look next. This year it's been one problem after another hence the title so much that at 6.30 this morning a can of petrol and a match were looking a very real proposition. Any ideas welcome. The bike runs great even when cold once it starts I feel the problem is fuel :?: but will try anything to cure the bastard :twisted: :twisted:
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PAULJAC47
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#2 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:09 pm

Hi Alan have you checked enrichment circuit? it is possible to remove them one at time with care if carbs are still on bike,failing that check fuel levels with manometer method,have you set pilots? i find easiest way is with Gunson colortune,also check fuel cap breather is clear try these then come back if no joy.keep at it...Paul J...
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DogsbolloxofZ1B
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Z1 Carbs

#3 PostAuthor: DogsbolloxofZ1B » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:26 pm

I restore these and know they can be a pain, a few things to check:

1. Make sure the emulsifier tubes are clear.
2. Ensure the jet in the carb floatbowl, the one that the emulsifier tubes
goes into, is clear. It is a jet so don't go drilling it out use a fine needle.
3. Make sure your individual chokes are lifting, it is possible for them to
be lifted but not open! The small pin on the end of the choke can
corrode into its seat in the carb body.

Mike

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Pigford
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#4 PostAuthor: Pigford » Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:56 pm

Well worth double checking low tension side to coils... and that they're getting a good 12 volts + a bit :?? Whack in 4 x new plugs too :wink:
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02GF74
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#5 PostAuthor: 02GF74 » Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:09 pm

check the engine cut out switch is not on or not diggy.

no guesses who tried to kick start their Z only to find the engin cut was on!!! :o :lol:

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#6 PostAuthor: sweptail » Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:10 am

mine is a bit like this. very frustating. It starts well enuff but 1 or 2 DIFFERENT cylinders do not fire properly.Very erratic idle.
Goes great wen off choke.
I am beginning to suspect the Dyna s :) Tommy

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ade woollams
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#7 PostAuthor: ade woollams » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:18 am

my motor is stock apart from the 4-1 .got points still on it and that fires on 3 from choke once its off the other comes in.but i am a touch rich on the jetting which does not help matters.
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#8 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:16 am

My A4 occasionally is a bugger to start. Once I replace the plugs she starts fine.

One time after a week or so of not being used I couldn't get the ol' girl to start, took a plug out and it was dry. I turned off the fuel cock, drained one of the carb bowls and found a little drop of water in there. Cleaned out all the bowls turned the fuel tap back on and she fired up no problems.
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mick znone
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#9 PostAuthor: mick znone » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:42 am

its best to pour the petrol onto some rags underneath, then run a line of petrol along a concrete path, say 12 feet. NEVER TRY TO LIGHT IT FROM UP CLOSE, or you will come up on utube every time someone types in IDIOT WITH A MATCH. hope this helps. :up
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#10 PostAuthor: wilsonsjw11 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:51 am

Mick
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kev edwards
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#11 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:01 am

My dad always used to squirt lighter gas into the air filter opening if it fires up then , you know its fueling , i also use this method on my old lawn mower as i can't be arsed to sort it , and it does work. good luck.

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#12 PostAuthor: floydsz1 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:19 pm

When it does start, the cylinders that are not firing, try lifting the plug caps off the plugs so they are not quite pushed far enough on to the plug to make contact with the top of the plug. (so the electrical current has to jump from the plug cap to the plug.
you might be able to hear the plugs start to fire. after about 30secs push them back on. I had to do this sometimes with me z1a after i had rebuilt it. Its ok now though after about 1000 mls
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Big Fluff
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#13 PostAuthor: Big Fluff » Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:03 am

Alan.
If you have NGK caps fitted, try fitting either a new set or better still some without resistors.
The resistors break down and can cause all sorts of firing problems.!
Regs, Will
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Poor starting.

#14 PostAuthor: Dan Wright » Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:02 pm

Big Fluff wrote:Alan.
If you have NGK caps fitted, try fitting either a new set or better still some without resistors.
The resistors break down and can cause all sorts of firing problems.!
Regs, Will


I'd go with Billy's idea. What I would also add is patience matey and you will find the answer. Starts on 2 cylinders? Identify which two are running and swap plug leads with two that aren't. If they are now running instead, problem is ignition. Now as you have two coils, chase back your two good leads and see if they both go back to same coil. If yes, you've identified problem as the other coil. Now you've said new coils are fitted, so check connections along entire ignition system. Interesting enough you've said that early morning you had problem, yet later in day it started easier? How damp is it where bike is kept? Condensation formed in early morning can cause problem, yet be gone later in day when warmed up. If it was carbs, then time of day wouldn't matter. Good luck matey and don't give up!

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#15 PostAuthor: Rich » Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:19 pm

check wiring loom for breaks / bad connections. Wire ignition straight to battery to eliminate wiring loom then try it.
Rich
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