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hopefully last carb question

Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:47 am
Author: 02GF74
z1000 a1 starts, runs and idles from cold ok so good. using adjuster knob, set idle (according to the rev counter) at under 1,000) :)

now if i blip throttle using twist grip, to say take revs to 3,000 or more, then return twist grip to closed position, engine runs at 2,000 and does not seem to want to run slower. :(

by lifting the cold start - make too rich when warm ,engine sloes down to almost stalling - that is normal -and if I move lever off before it stalls it then returns to idling normally at 1,000 or less.

now I haven't adjusted the push pull cables so that may be why but I can't see that that is the reason - since to get it to run slower, I am not touching any throtte, just altering the mixture.

any ideas of cause and/or fix? (I will play with adjusting the cables).

Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:05 pm
Author: 02GF74
right, I am conviinced this is cable problem.

I blip throttle, then use finger to press down on the linkage under the tank and idle goes normal - just need to figure out how to set the cable.

I assume the cable to close needs to be done up tight first, then the one to open adjusted to have a tiny bit of slack????

also managed to fix 2 float needles (1 still drips ) - done by putting inside a plastic hose so that it is centralised in drill press (since drill chuck as 3 jaws but the needle has 4 flats), then press 600 wet 'n' on a flat blade agasint it until all ridges become invisible, finish off with 1000 w'n'd and job done.

running lovely...... :lol:

then need to decide if it is worth the hassle of MOT to run it this year or not .....?

Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:10 pm
Author: Rich
Check your slide heights / synchronisation, fuel levels, oil cables / check routing. Set opening cable with some free play, closing cable should compress the lever mechanism on the top of the carbs by about 1mm.

Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:07 pm
Author: 02GF74
Rich wrote:Check your slide heights / synchronisation, fuel levels, oil cables / check routing. Set opening cable with some free play, closing cable should compress the lever mechanism on the top of the carbs by about 1mm.


slide hieghts were recehcked quite meticulously with a thin wire and juging by how smoothly it is ticking over, thye are quite well in sync.

so defo the wires. seems as soon as I sort out one needle vavle, another one goes; the one on 1 wasn't piddling out of the over flow tube but I culd see petrol leaking at syulinder head/ rubber interface whcih explainsed why cylinder 1 did not fire.

now, that ^^^ has got me thinking, if fuel is leaking out there, then I have an air leak :( ?