Dry Battery blues

[pablo]

Thanks Andy. Your first five suppositions are true. I haven't double checked the wiring of the new unit but will do so tomorrow.

Incidentally - I have a mystery misfire at high revs too, but only occasionally. Is this another clue as to what may be wrong? I realise this may be totally unrelated.

Cheers, P.

[Big Fluff]

Pablo,

Checked mine today, after the first ride-out of the year (yippee).

14.4V DC, and as expected, virtually nothing on the AC range (about 20mV).

Something doesn't sound right with your system, you need to get to the bottom of this before you boil another battery.

Is all of the following true?

You have removed the original rectifier
You have removed the original regulator
You have fitted a combined reg/rect
This has occured with more than one battery
The symptoms existed before AND after you changed the regulator

How confident are you that the wiring of the new unit is correct?
Regardless of manufacturer the combined units tend to have 3 input wires from the alternator (Pink/Yel/Blue or Yel/Yel/Yel) and a Pos and Neg output (usually red/black). On a Z the Red goes to the heavy white lead that used to be connected to the old rectifier and the black is best taken directly to the neg of the battery.

If all this is correct it may be worth looking for a stray connection from the alternator wires to somewhere on the switched DC side. This is most likely to occur on the main connector blocks on the electrical plate as the alternator wires are bus-wired through three of these blocks and two of them also contain various DC wires.

Good luck

Andy

And - In addition to the 5 wires you have quoted, there may be a 6th on the Electrex Reg/Rec unit.....
Basically the 3 x yellows to the yellow, pink & blue generator wires, the red to permenant +Live, the black to -negative ground and if there is a sixth wire then this must go to +12v ign switched (any brown on Kawasaki). This is to monitor the voltage which opens/closes the charge to the battery automatically to STOP OVERCHARGING.
Worth taking a look... Will

[pablo]

Basically the 3 x yellows to the yellow, pink & blue generator wires, the red to permenant +Live, the black to -negative ground and if there is a sixth wire then this must go to +12v ign switched (any brown on Kawasaki)

I have 3 yellows going to yellow, pink & blue.

I have red going to white via the existing connector (this is a 3 way connector, with a red/white wire).

I have black going into a black/yellow via the existing connector.

And I have a thinner red wire going to brown.

How does that sound? I'll have a look at the books shortly and try to be more specific about the red/white and the black/yellow, if it helps.

Thanks a lot for all your help. P.

[Big Fluff]

That sounds spot on !

[Rich]

Make sure that the earth is good

[pablo]

If that is all okay I'll check this out:

If all this is correct it may be worth looking for a stray connection from the alternator wires to somewhere on the switched DC side. This is most likely to occur on the main connector blocks on the electrical plate as the alternator wires are bus-wired through three of these blocks and two of them also contain various DC wires.

as Andy suggested. The DC charge is, after all, correct. It's the AC voltage that appears to be the problem. P.