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Royalratch
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#16 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:05 pm

Thanks guys.

Here it is:

Image

I will have to make a threaded ring for it and press fit it to that. I need to use this one as it communicates with the chip that talks to my phone.

I've actually lost track of what bottom end. Could be 650 or 750. Head and barrels are GPZ.

Either way, need to drill into engine right?

It has to go back to Debben soon to fit and balance carbs - maybe I'll just let hime do it lol.
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#17 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:18 am

Modified Oil Pressure Switch housing could work? I don;t have and gauged or warning lights anyway so could be perfect...?
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zed1015
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#18 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:42 am

I wouldn't bother with a temp gauge .
Practically useless except for pointless bling and added complication.
You aren't ever going to get it hot enough to do damage unless it's due to oil starvation.
Oil level and pressure is more important.
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#19 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:04 pm

Cheers dude.

But this is exactly a pointless and bling exercise lol.

A friend and I want to see if I can transmit the Oil Temp to my iPhone wirelessly - its just a geek exercise.

But once I have Temp readings, I can add that data to GPS data of average speed and distance to calculate some fun stats. When and where did it get hottest and what speed and what the weather was like etc.

Its just a 'project'

That said - Re-using the Oil Pressure Switch the best idea?
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#20 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:09 pm

the problem you will have putting it in an oil gallery is it is pressurised & getting a good seal around the sensor will be difficult. there doesn't appear to be a threaded portion of the sensor. it looks too long to be under the points cover
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#21 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:45 pm

Thanks for reply.

I was thinking to have something made that it will press fit into and that will be threaded into the appropriate place with a decent seal.
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#22 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Mon Jan 19, 2015 3:27 pm

The best area to place the sensor is at the back of the block or head as Kawasaki did which is shielded from the cooling air flow.
You don't want it in the oil pressure switch etc as this will read cooler than the actual engine temp you are concerned with.
You need direct contact with the alloy barrel or head preferably as close to the combustion chamber as you can get.
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#23 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Jan 19, 2015 4:33 pm

you could put an aluminium blanking plug about 17mm diameter in one of the four holes in the cam cover which allow access to the inner cylinder head nuts then drill the centre & push the sensor in the plug & the top of the engine should be the hottest part of the engine as heat rises
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#24 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 4:47 pm

The sensor is only rated to 155d C and I'm assuming the head gets much hotter than that - but thats a good idea - no drilling and quite close to combustion.
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#25 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:03 pm

probably close to 300 on the cylinder head ?
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#26 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:10 pm

Thats gonna be a problem.

Might to see if I can splice a proper sensor into the 'processor' I'm using.

It has breakout ports for a temp sensor but I'm guessing all the eclectics need to be within range - 5V, Resistance etc etc...
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#27 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:26 pm

the measurement i quoted is in Fahrenheit i think it would be close to 150c
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#28 PostAuthor: z1bman » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:30 pm

http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/temper ... g-28-p.asp
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Royalratch
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#29 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:35 pm

Perfect!

I can use mine then. I'll draw something up and have it machined.

Will let you know how I get on - thanks lads.
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#30 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:38 pm

Thats the one i was attempting to describe from those guyz
PAULJAC47,,,,,"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."
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