Z900 engine problems

[jimmock]

I over filled my A4 once.

I run it on K+N's so no air box.
I have a vent pipe from the crankcase to atmosphere.
The bike "pumped" out all the excess oil over the rear tyre after a short 15 mile run. There was oil all over my buddies drive way when I stopped.

I think it is imperative that the oil level is correct or even a tad lower.

[Phil50]

Hi

The compresion ratio per the Kawasaki Factory owners manual is 145 PSI

The service limit that requires attention ios 100 PSI So My bike allowing for gauge error of 2 % is spot on.

The mystery deepens.

I am grateful for the comment that the person who did this to my bike should put it right. I agree

However I will not name him for now until I have checked all the ramifications of doing so.

I will be cleaning the carbs and setting them up now the sun is here. I may even road tax it for 6 or 7 weeks of the summer left.

For now its a bottle of King Goblin and three hours of ELP at high volume!!

cheers all

Phil

[jimmock]

Hi

The compresion ratio per the Kawasaki Factory owners manual is 145 PSI

The service limit that requires attention ios 100 PSI So My bike allowing for gauge error of 2 % is spot on.

The mystery deepens.

I am grateful for the comment that the person who did this to my bike should put it right. I agree

However I will not name him for now until I have checked all the ramifications of doing so.

I will be cleaning the carbs and setting them up now the sun is here. I may even road tax it for 6 or 7 weeks of the summer left.

For now its a bottle of King Goblin and three hours of ELP at high volume!!

cheers all

Phil

"King Goblin" I fancy that!!!!

[weaver]

if you are going to run it it is definately worth adding a breather to the oil filler to see how it effects the crankcase pressure,run the end of it high with a filter on the end

[Garn 1]

After reading the "Low profile oil breather" by JohnC and Jimmock's and Weavers's replies above. I think I would first set your oil level a little lower in the eye glass and check if any oil gets up into the air-box by temporary diverting the bottom a/box hose to a container and check for oil.

Once you have nailed this ... start a new heading for your starter clutch problem.
RegardZ

[Phil50]

I have disconnected the little "Z" pipe from the crankcase breather to the Airbox and have fitted a plastic tube that goes into a small bottle under the carbs. It has some small pin holes above the pipe bottom fro breathing.

If I ever get this heap started this year I will re check oil level and go for a small spin. I don't reckon on getting more than a mile or so before something else packs up. Twice last year I only got a mile then the rear tyre inner tube decided to detach itself from the valve. Then the carbs ran like a dream for one day and next morning it started and after a mile carbs packed up and it ran like it was running on 2 1/2 carbs. That was last October!

This will be my last effort this year if it dont run this time It goes on Ebay for whatever i can get for it. I shall invest in a Raleigh with 10 speed clangers.

I have had enough of Kawasakis for one life and the creep who ruined it for me.

thanks all

Phil

[Pigford]

If you're running a "breather pipe" from the top cover - make sure the pipe rises high before going into the bottle, this reduces oil spill/flow. I run mine up to the seat rail height (above battery) and back down

[ZedHead]

I have disconnected the little "Z" pipe from the crankcase breather to the Airbox and have fitted a plastic tube that goes into a small bottle under the carbs. It has some small pin holes above the pipe bottom fro breathing.

If I ever get this heap started this year I will re check oil level and go for a small spin. I don't reckon on getting more than a mile or so before something else packs up. Twice last year I only got a mile then the rear tyre inner tube decided to detach itself from the valve. Then the carbs ran like a dream for one day and next morning it started and after a mile carbs packed up and it ran like it was running on 2 1/2 carbs. That was last October!

This will be my last effort this year if it dont run this time It goes on Ebay for whatever i can get for it. I shall invest in a Raleigh with 10 speed clangers.

I have had enough of Kawasakis for one life and the creep who ruined it for me.

thanks all

Phil

Don't give up mate.. I had a similar experience last year after a so called expert nearly trashed my cylinder head. Fortunately a Buzzard came to the rescue and the bike runs better than ever now.

Old bikes can test your patience and skill but it is work it in the long run.

PS: I have a spare tenner if you do decide to sell

[garyd]

Just a comment on the 'Low Breather'....
Unitraks run a low breather and I'm guessing the crankcases are not significantly larger volume to compensate...so recon that isn't the problem.

[debben1]

Hello Phil
For an engine to produce so much crankcase pressure, (the reason oil is pumped out of a breather) i would suspect head gasket failure, if the gasket fails between the inside cylinders and the camchain tunnel then the piston pumps up the crankcases with pressure, i have seen engines assembled with a 1 peice cometic head gasket and the original o ring fitted aswell, perhaps this is the way yours has been assembled, another reason for failure is if i liner sinks into the block, Just some ideas, Regards, Steve

[Phil50]

Thanks Steve,

This is most interesting. I always use genuine Kawasaki gaskets it was a 2 piece I think with a new inner rubber.

If the head gasket was blown would this no show on a compression test and would the bike not "pull" well under load?

Phil

[debben1]

Hello Phil, it was just a thought that the cam chain tunnel was leaking but if you used the correct gasket it shouldnt be a problem, head gasket issues dont always show up on a compression test, theres a big difference between spinning the engine over on the starter and running at several thousand rpm, performance would suffer too but maybe not noticable with out a dyno, the crankcase pressure has to come from somewhere and the pistons often are the cause of this pressure, it could also be as suggested prevously an incorrect installed piston ring although usually 1 of the plugs would be getting oily. A leak down test would show up much more than a compression test as air is pumped in through the plug hole and between 2-6 % should escape, if one of the cylinders has a large leak down you can identify it as the problem.
Regards, Steve

[Phil50]

Hi Steve

An excellent series of suggestions.

However a local bike place wants £300 to do a Dyna and this leak down test.

I can get new pistons 1mm oversize patent ones and a rebore for £340.

So I think its time for Ebay I cant throw any more money on an old motorcycle. A shame but such is life.

thanks mate

Phil

[andyb1962]

That is a real shame, but im sure youll fully check out all other options prior to the devils market!

[ZedHead]

A leak down test without the dyno should point you in the right direction and be much cheaper than the £300 you have been quote.

Where are you located? There maybe someone on here local to you that can help?