Side stand bracket looks a little wonky rz!
AL
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Engine back to life (hopefully) now with pics!!
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Redzee,
If you plan to strip the top end, I would suggest you re-fit the barrels whilst it's on the bench, then fit the lump into the frame & carry on with the rest of the rebuild with the motor in situ.
Alternatively, if you completely rebuild the engine & the frame is still 'bare', you can use the 'frame over' method, where you lay the engine on its side, lower the frame over, then bolt it up, before righting the frame. A method used by many on here.
As Al says, that side stand bracket looks a little 'bent up', best to check underneath for rot or damaged welds, it could tear off if left unchecked.......
...... like this;

If you plan to strip the top end, I would suggest you re-fit the barrels whilst it's on the bench, then fit the lump into the frame & carry on with the rest of the rebuild with the motor in situ.
Alternatively, if you completely rebuild the engine & the frame is still 'bare', you can use the 'frame over' method, where you lay the engine on its side, lower the frame over, then bolt it up, before righting the frame. A method used by many on here.
As Al says, that side stand bracket looks a little 'bent up', best to check underneath for rot or damaged welds, it could tear off if left unchecked.......
...... like this;


Hey guys, you had me worried for a moment.
Sidestand bracket is solid, as is the frame. I've owned bike from new and its done bugger all miles. Was stored inside for 17 years, and used in OZ before that so no road salt or months of damp roads to dissolve it. I see what you're saying but it looks no different to me than when I bought it.
As for the engine, I'm going to build it out of the fame then fit it in before eveything else gets done by laying the frame over as suggested (that's how I got it out). By the way, whats the best engine paint to use? I used satin black once but its difficult to keep clean. In your opinion, do you think gloss would look c**p?
Thanks for the help.
redzee
Sidestand bracket is solid, as is the frame. I've owned bike from new and its done bugger all miles. Was stored inside for 17 years, and used in OZ before that so no road salt or months of damp roads to dissolve it. I see what you're saying but it looks no different to me than when I bought it.
As for the engine, I'm going to build it out of the fame then fit it in before eveything else gets done by laying the frame over as suggested (that's how I got it out). By the way, whats the best engine paint to use? I used satin black once but its difficult to keep clean. In your opinion, do you think gloss would look c**p?
Thanks for the help.
redzee
Eight valve grunt.
Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.
Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,
Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.
Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,
I used this stuff , I like it and slightly more glossy than satin .
Thin it down with 20% cellulose thinners and spray away , Robert's your mothers brother
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260821280783? ... _680wt_905
Thin it down with 20% cellulose thinners and spray away , Robert's your mothers brother

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260821280783? ... _680wt_905
0172 . Geoff Parr
Z1parr wrote:I used this stuff , I like it and slightly more glossy than satin .
Thin it down with 20% cellulose thinners and spray away , Robert's your mothers brother![]()
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260821280783? ... _680wt_905
Looks ideal,
I only have a crappy electric spray gun, but it should be okay for painting the engine.
Thanks
redzee
Eight valve grunt.
Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.
Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,
Remember, growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional.
Z1000J3, RD350(1973), RD250E, TZR250 2MA,
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