Hello Guest User,

Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.

To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.

Best instant 'metal' to use ??

Need help restoring, building, or finding then try here.

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

Message
Author
Thezedsintheshed
100Club
100Club
Posts: 160
Joined: 22nd Sep 2007
Location: Deepest Darkest Wales

#16 PostAuthor: Thezedsintheshed » Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:09 pm

Dont be too hasty to rule out welding it in situ option, if there is enough room to prod JB weld around ther area with your index finger then there will definatly be enough room to get a Mig torch in there.
If anything , given that the Saxon has a Rickman type frame then there is probably more room to get at the exhaust port area of the engine than with the standard Kawasaki frame set up.

Ask around your local welding / engineering company's to find someone who has a Synergic Mig set up.
A Synergic Mig set up can literally mig weld 2 coke cans together :shock:

It produces a Tig quality finish and in the right hands will produce a quality repair to your cylinder head without having to remove the motor from the frame or remove the head from the motor.
It's not broke , just in bit's for a while !

User avatar
02GF74
100Club
100Club
Posts: 334
Joined: 31st Mar 2008
Location: South Herts

#17 PostAuthor: 02GF74 » Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:34 am

Big Fluff wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions guys, though the

What I propose to do is to make a mould for the outside shape by smearing another lug with vaseline and using JB weld 'putty' to replicate the shape. Once that has set I will remove the cam retaining cap and clinically clean all the area.



never done that so notsure how successfl it will be but I reckon you will push the vaseline outof theway when slaaping on the JB.

maybe some like cling film or wax release agent, the stuff used to cover moulds for grp fabrication would work better. guess it will involve some trial and error.

User avatar
Big Fluff
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2708
Joined: 1st Mar 2007
Location: Aston, Cheshire

#18 PostAuthor: Big Fluff » Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:19 pm

Well, I made a mould out of JB Weld 'stick', lined it with cling flim and held it in place with a compression spring. I then gently heated the JB Weld 'resin' and coaxed it down the entrance hole in order to fill the void.
It seems to have gone ok but time will tell in the morning when I remove the mould :??
Hopefully it'll be a simple case of drilling, tapping and inserting a helicoil to complete the job :|
Image
Kawasaki H2C 750, ZRX1100R, H**** VF1000RG Rothmans, H**** VF500F2F, Suzuki GSXR750F Slabbie

User avatar
Big Fluff
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2708
Joined: 1st Mar 2007
Location: Aston, Cheshire

#19 PostAuthor: Big Fluff » Sun Oct 05, 2008 4:25 pm

Just an update.........
It worked !! :P :P Popped a helicoil in afterwards, clamped down fine and the lug looks almost as good as the others.
Well chuffed with the result :arrow:
Image
Kawasaki H2C 750, ZRX1100R, H**** VF1000RG Rothmans, H**** VF500F2F, Suzuki GSXR750F Slabbie

User avatar
Pigford
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 13314
Joined: 2nd Jan 2006
Location: North Dorset

#20 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:13 pm

Well done Will....... Thats wot its all about mate, "triumph over adversity" :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

User avatar
02GF74
100Club
100Club
Posts: 334
Joined: 31st Mar 2008
Location: South Herts

#21 PostAuthor: 02GF74 » Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:42 pm

looks quite successful!!

hopefully it'll survive the real test once you get the engine up to temperature.


Return to “Bike Help”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests