1974 Z1 900 finally on the road but with a few problems.

[jdsmithinc]

Hi everyone. I finally got the title work done on my bike, and got to take it out on the open road for the first time since I got it. I had been mainly riding it around the block, and it seemed like it was doing fine. While out on the road I noticed that at about 5k rpms it lacked a lot of power but when I layed into it, the bike picked up pretty good. I also noticed that there is fuel coming from the overflow tubes from the carbs while sitting at idle, as well as parked and shut down (petcock in on position which looks factory, and has two lines running from it both of which are fed into the fuel feed line.) The carbs are not the factory ones. I have been told that they are from a 78 KZ 1000. The carbs have got 17.5 idle jets and 115 mains. I am running a full kerker exhaust with the baffle intact and pods. I have rewired the coils for more power. I tested the battery and it was a little low, and when I started the bike the voltage was jumping everywhere from 9.7 up to 48 (what in Gods name is wrong here?) I had a spare regulator from another bike and put it on, but it is doing the same thing. I guess what I am asking is, what is the correct bowl float height? What would cause my voltage to jump around like that? What else can I check to cure this problem? What the hell is wrong with it? (maybe the operator, lol)

[RALPHARAMA]

The regulators are very temperamental on these bikes. Best replace the reg and rectifier with a combined unit from Z1 Enterprises before you cook the battery.

The carbs will probably want a service kit replacing the float valves.

[jdsmithinc]

I had recently done a carb rebuild on them with new float seats and needles and jets as well as gaskets. The floats are not taking on fuel and the float level is a little less than 1/2 inch below top of bowls, all consistent (not sure if this is the correct height). I purchased a set of #125 mains today from a guy that has worked on these bikes for years, he said that it will really help out the current problem considering I have kz1000 carbs. He also suggested that I just replace the old ignition system with electronic, as this may be what is causing my above 5k dead zone. He also told me that the factory Z1 carbs are larger than the KZ carbs and it would be best to rebuild those and place them on the bike. Only problem is that I need the T valves that feed into the bowls because the ones that were on it were cracked and leaking. I dont know how old the coils are that are on it, they were on it when I purchased it. I have currently got the needles set on the third slot (middle) and it runs like crap. When I put the #125's in should I leave the needles at the third slot or move them to the second where it was running well before 5k rpms?

[jdsmithinc]

Ok, I found a way to utilize the factory carbs. I put some o-rings on the t fittings and they worked! No leaking there! Only problem is I put a new rebuild kit in it including the needle and seats. The carbs are leaking from the overflow tubes, and the float heights are correct. The #125 main jets with the 17.5 pilots woke her up really well. I didnt experience any hesitation at all. When I let off the throttle it backfires some, what is that from? I also developed a horrific oil leak from the left side of the engine. It was all over my shoe and the left side of the bike. I guess it is coming from the seal around the sprocket shaft. It also seems like it is coming from around the side cover on the left. I also noticed some ticking coming from the engine the whole ride (the oil level is fine). Anyone have any ideas?

[Pigford]

jdsmithinc, the 'oily' foot syndrome (l/h) is usually from the grommet where the alternator wires exit the casing So check there first

[jdsmithinc]

I started up the road this morning on my bike and it was running like I had fouled a plug or two. I will check in a little while. Maybe the #125 jets are too big.

[foreverinthegarage]

Hi
I had the same problem with my carbs and after many strip and rebuilds i found out it was small rust deposits in my tank!!!! Once i treated the tank the problem went away.

[jdsmithinc]

I checked out what you (pigford) said about the grommet and you are correct sir. Thanks, I got that part fixed. I figured out why my second from left carb was leaking from the overflow tube. I had put new needles and seats in it, adjusted the tang on the float. I noticed that the overflow tube inside the bowl has a hole in it causing it to leak. Does anyone know of a way to fix it other than replacing the bowl? I am more than likely going to have to go down to #120 mains instead of the #125's. When I rev up on it there is a little smoking and I can smell the gas.

[RALPHARAMA]

I've never had one spring a leak, but as it is brass I wonder if it could be soft soldered - got to be worth a punt - you have nothing to lose. You'd need to get it pretty clean though. I can't remember the name of the solvent, but it's the active ingredient in most paint strippers, but that's the stuff you want to remove the petrol varnish.

As you are from the most litigious country on the planet I will remind you not to use naked flames near petrol, wear flame retardant clothing, leather gloves, space suit, breathing apparatus etc, etc Mind you us Brits are catching on, you don't dare invite your mates round any more lest they trip over and sue you