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Z1000 A2 Rear Brake Master Cylinder

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Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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Fred the Zed
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#31 PostAuthor: Fred the Zed » Tue Feb 14, 2017 3:14 pm

Fred the Zed wrote:
johny brando wrote:
scott wrote:Kev there are two tiny holes in the master cylinder, make sure these are clear, think one is called a relief hole. A very fine piece of wire should open up the hole, which is probably full of shite......had the same problem on my A2.



Scotts correct ! Theres 2 tiny holes . 1 down stream of the the Piston seal this one acts when the levers is released after being pressurized .... this to allow released pressure to escape back into the reservoir the other tiny hole is upstream of the Piston seal & this one keeps the Piston chamber primed & it is this one that is likely blocked & trying to clear this using back pressuring via Caliper Bleed nipples etc will not clear the blockage, as back pressure cannot (by design) access this area , you will have to remove the piston & seal & then clear the tiny drilling using compressed air is best ...wire of any description can & likely will do damage. While your in there at the same time it's probably wise to put a rebuild kit through it & when bleeding the system take off & invert the Reservoir to start the procedure & this will ensure the reservoir is fully primed. Good luck & Cheers, Johny Brando.


I've has the rear master cylinder apart today as bleeding it is difficult and I wanted to make sure it was clean. One question..... what the 22mm nut for on the side of the unit? It was locked solid and I didn't want to force it.

Fred


Righto

The 22mm nut allows access to the 2 holes that Scott usefully mentioned. I haven't got access to an airline so I carefully used a fine bristle from a paint brush to clear out the tiny hole which had a minute amount of crud in it. A bristle won't increase the hole size like a wire will.

Once reassembled and fitted with a new HEL stainless line it bled quite easily, even though I've fitted an underslung AP caliper. Bleeding took about 20 mins, far quicker than I've ever managed it before.

Fred
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ADRIAN H
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#32 PostAuthor: ADRIAN H » Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:03 pm

I thought the 22mm nut was to allow for priming prior to bleeding.
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Mr Bump
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#33 PostAuthor: Mr Bump » Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:49 pm

chrisu wrote:JIS and Phillips are different. I can't count the time a Phillips has tried to 'cam out' where a JIS screwdriver just undoes it. Yes a new phillips will do most screws but JIS won't cam out and you don't need to hit it with a hammer or undo it with a torque wrench either.

Have a read of this

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2014/09/the-japanese-phillips-jis-screwdrivers/


Thread hijack time! Couldn't agree more. When i got a set of JIS screwdrivers i tried using the no 2 to undo a slightly mashed up carb screw, then compared it with a phillips no2. The phillips would cam out unless i pushed down with some force, the jis undid it under its own wieght.

Ive spent years struggling to undo cross head screw on older bikes, then find out from James May of all people that I, and every bugger else, have been using the wrong tool.

It does make a difference, at least to me.
'In your twenties you think you are immortal, in your thirties you hope you are immortal, in your forties you just hope it doesn't hurt too much'

Lemmy


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