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WINTER STORAGE
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
WINTER STORAGE
Just wondering what is best advice for my z1000 here - Should I drain all fuel or add fuel stabiliser and/or drain only carb bowls ? - Also as it may only be actually ridden say once a month is it ok to simply start the bike and idle til warm say once a week or would that cause probs ? - Just trying to avoid fuel/carb probs next spring !!
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
Last winter, I kept my 900 tucked away in the garage unless the weather/road conditions allowed a 20-mile+ trip out. Whilst it was under wraps, I ran it up to warm temp at least once a week, used only super unleaded in the (kept full to the brim) tank, added stabil and redex to the fuel, used a regular wipeover of ACF50 on all chrome and shiny bits, WD40 on the electrical contacts, kept a close eye on the battery and put it on trickle charge if the bike sounded like it was struggling to start (a rare event, as it turned out), and turned the fuel tap to 'off' after each and every run to try and prevent the carb float bowls overflow scenario (never happened). Also shot a squeeze of ACF50 into the exhausts through the drain holes to try and alleviate condensation rusting from inside - don't know if this will work, but pipes and chrome look fine and solid on the outside. Made sure I span the wheels regularly when it was sat still for prolonged periods, re-lubed the chain and checked the front brake disc/pads for crud after every road outing.
Come springtime, re-checked the tyre pressures, and rolled it out for some fine-day riding without issue. Worked for me, but I'm sure somebody will chip in and say I did it all wrong! haha!
Come springtime, re-checked the tyre pressures, and rolled it out for some fine-day riding without issue. Worked for me, but I'm sure somebody will chip in and say I did it all wrong! haha!
KAWASAKI KZ900A4
KAWASAKI ZR750C4
SUZUKI GT250M
KAWASAKI ZR750C4
SUZUKI GT250M
I've used a stabiliser for several years now given the horrors you hear about the longevity of modern Fuel. I know some say it's just a Snake Oil, but it seems to works for me. Although I'd think having a well maintained bike in a good state of tune helps.
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
WINTER STORAGE
Thanks guys - Do you generally use super unleaded fuel or is it just for storage - Also do you not bother draining fuel from the float bowls ? Cheers.
I too always add fuel stabilizer to the fuel, as well as “Spitfire†pellets in the tank. Like Garry said, “It works for me†so I’ll carry on doing the same with all my bikes.
I always carry out the same ritual if I’m storing for winter.....
Fill the tank with super unleaded (regardless of running or just storing through the winter), add stabilizer, run up to operating temperature, switch the fuel off but carry on running until the engine dies. If you only have a vacuum tap fitted then simply crimp the vacuum to tap hose and leave running until it dies. Pump the tyres up to around 55 psi and then stick the trickle charger / battery minders on.
http://www.cjhmultisourcing.eu/descript ... Cmc42qLTRY
I always carry out the same ritual if I’m storing for winter.....
Fill the tank with super unleaded (regardless of running or just storing through the winter), add stabilizer, run up to operating temperature, switch the fuel off but carry on running until the engine dies. If you only have a vacuum tap fitted then simply crimp the vacuum to tap hose and leave running until it dies. Pump the tyres up to around 55 psi and then stick the trickle charger / battery minders on.
http://www.cjhmultisourcing.eu/descript ... Cmc42qLTRY
Kawasaki H2C 750, ZRX1100R, H**** VF1000RG Rothmans, H**** VF500F2F, Suzuki GSXR750F Slabbie
I think the choice is ride it once a month to get every thing up to temperature and make sure brakes/clutch do not stick, and tyres do not lose pressure and develop flat spots
Or
Drain petrol tank and carbs [ leave filler cap open to prevent condensation ]
Change oil before lay up so there is clean oil in the engine, support bike so tyres are clear of floor and lever brake pistons/pads back to prevent them sticking to discs.
My bike is no show stopper, I normally do the first option.
Or
Drain petrol tank and carbs [ leave filler cap open to prevent condensation ]
Change oil before lay up so there is clean oil in the engine, support bike so tyres are clear of floor and lever brake pistons/pads back to prevent them sticking to discs.
My bike is no show stopper, I normally do the first option.
'Dying a'int much of a living, boy'
Outlaw Josey Wales
Member No. 555
Outlaw Josey Wales
Member No. 555
Id have thought starting and idling it once a week is only really going to add wear. Ive just put a (more modern) bike back on the road after years lay up. I drained the tank, ran it until it till it wouldn't run, even with the choke on,took the battery out and forgot to charge it for six months so it fu##ed itself (dont do that bit!) and sprayed it in gt85. Started first poke and hasn't deteriorated at all.
Ive got a dirt bike that gets used intermittently. I use super unleaded and turn the fuel tap on to top the float bowl up every so often. That started straight up the other day after 3-4 months of standing.
Olly
Ive got a dirt bike that gets used intermittently. I use super unleaded and turn the fuel tap on to top the float bowl up every so often. That started straight up the other day after 3-4 months of standing.
Olly
'In your twenties you think you are immortal, in your thirties you hope you are immortal, in your forties you just hope it doesn't hurt too much'
Lemmy
Lemmy
- warren3200gt
- 100Club
- Posts: 390
- Joined: 13th Jun 2014
- Location: Dartford Kent
I drain tank and float bowls, leave battery on trickle charger, over inflate the tyres to prevent flat spots and keep in a dehumidified garage.
I used to keep classic cars also and without a dehumidifier the disc went surface rusty in a few weeks, with a dehumidifier they never went rusty and I had no problems at all.
The dehumidifier takes out at least a litre a day even if I don't open the doors for a few weeks. Best £200 I ever spent relating to classic vehicles.
I used to keep classic cars also and without a dehumidifier the disc went surface rusty in a few weeks, with a dehumidifier they never went rusty and I had no problems at all.
The dehumidifier takes out at least a litre a day even if I don't open the doors for a few weeks. Best £200 I ever spent relating to classic vehicles.
PUM 488 June 17
76 Z900A4
77 Z650B1
77 KZ650B1
82 Z1000J2
89 ZXR750H1
92 Blade RRN
76 Z900A4
77 Z650B1
77 KZ650B1
82 Z1000J2
89 ZXR750H1
92 Blade RRN
Ride yer bike, at least once a month - keep fuel tank topped up, with Ethomix fuel stabiliser added.
👀 👀 👀
email - adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
email - adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
motol fuel stabilizer, fill the tank to the brim to stop rusting and condensation, start once a month and leave to get nice and hot or better take for a spin. mines on a trickle charger all the time anyway. I have got a Ducati as well and she starts first time every time after a few months when the salt has gone with no problems with this treatment.
WINTER STORAGE
So let's say I have managed to find a place indoors (Don't ask !!) for the bike - Assuming I then empty the fuel tank and drain the float bowls, would I still have probs with fuel in the Jets etc ? Call me paranoid but whadya think ?
Re: WINTER STORAGE
AlanB wrote:So let's say I have managed to find a place indoors (Don't ask !!) for the bike - Assuming I then empty the fuel tank and drain the float bowls, would I still have probs with fuel in the Jets etc ? Call me paranoid but whadya think ?
If you drain it of all fuel - carbs won't block, but floats may stick a bit come first run in spring?
I always drain me Harris tank & carbs. Also turn engine over a turn regularly so same cylinder isn't open to air.
If you run the bike up regularly (monthly?) it has got to get HOT.... run if for a good +15mins or it will have condensation in oil. You will see it in the level window!!!
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
I do the following:
Before taking the bike off the road I run a tank full of fuel through that has been treated with Putoline Fuel Stabiliser.
Then I remove & drain the fuel tank - once drained I swill the inside out with WD40 & store it indoors in a cardboard box for winter.
Next step is to drain any fuel out of the carbs.
In my opinion it is pointless to keep starting the bike up every couple of weeks because that will do more harm than good unless you go for a long ride & get the bike really hot.
Far better to remove the plugs & tip an egg cup size worth of oil into each cylinder & turn the engine over a few times - then re-fit the plugs.
Come the end of winter I refit the tank put fresh fuel in & away she goes.
I've used the above method for the last 3 years & never had a problem - even when I've left the bike standing for 6 months!
Before taking the bike off the road I run a tank full of fuel through that has been treated with Putoline Fuel Stabiliser.
Then I remove & drain the fuel tank - once drained I swill the inside out with WD40 & store it indoors in a cardboard box for winter.
Next step is to drain any fuel out of the carbs.
In my opinion it is pointless to keep starting the bike up every couple of weeks because that will do more harm than good unless you go for a long ride & get the bike really hot.
Far better to remove the plugs & tip an egg cup size worth of oil into each cylinder & turn the engine over a few times - then re-fit the plugs.
Come the end of winter I refit the tank put fresh fuel in & away she goes.
I've used the above method for the last 3 years & never had a problem - even when I've left the bike standing for 6 months!
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