Hi, all just doing the final set up checks before my Spa trip and havea query about the timing. I have done the search and found loads of info, but as my bike is 8 plug high compression, should I set the timing at between 32-34 degrees according to the Greg cope guide or 40 degrees plus
Cheers Rob
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
z1000j dyna 2000 ignition timing
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
z1000j dyna 2000 ignition timing
Z1000R/ZRX, RD 125LC, Zx7r , Endurance racer
Rob you can knock off about 4 degrees of advance for the twin spark and another one for the high comp.
Standard unleaded is more detonation prone than super or excellium, ultimate etc etc so using standard unleaded equals another one degree or so as a starting point.
Total; approx six degrees less advance with youre set-up and standard un-leaded,.. meaning approx 34 degrees if youre start point was 40 degrees.
If it was me i would start off with 38 degrees and take six from that meaning 32 degrees of advance at 5000 rpm.
If it pinks back it off another degree or two at most.
If you have access to a good inductive pickup strobe i would check the base value (38 or 40 ) degrees rather than relying on the little red light as i have found them not to be in exactly close agreement!!
Dont know what the octane rating of froggy or belgy petrol is.
AL
Standard unleaded is more detonation prone than super or excellium, ultimate etc etc so using standard unleaded equals another one degree or so as a starting point.
Total; approx six degrees less advance with youre set-up and standard un-leaded,.. meaning approx 34 degrees if youre start point was 40 degrees.
If it was me i would start off with 38 degrees and take six from that meaning 32 degrees of advance at 5000 rpm.
If it pinks back it off another degree or two at most.
If you have access to a good inductive pickup strobe i would check the base value (38 or 40 ) degrees rather than relying on the little red light as i have found them not to be in exactly close agreement!!
Dont know what the octane rating of froggy or belgy petrol is.
AL
1981 J1
Robw wrote:Just been out for a spin post clutch cable melting and it'd certainly hesitant after 5000 rpm. Doesn't run smoothly and seems to be holding back, so I will move the timing regard 2 degrees
Rob
Could be timing but I've never seen that much change for messing about with adv/retard
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
Are you using a strobe to set it up?
See earlier post regarding the red light.
If you're using advance curve 5, its' not 'all in' until 5500 RPM (full advance delayed for high comp 2 valve motors) so using a strobe to set it means revving it past 5500!!
If you don't you wont see full advance as the distribution of advance per rev is much more accurate than standard set-up or using dyna 's' with standard advance and retard.
Not seeing full advance using a strobe (or other means) may lead you to set it with more advance than it really needs!
You can almost but not quite; simulate, a higher advance range by selecting advance curve 4 which is all in sooner, however youre problem is after 5000 so probably of little help.
If you change advance curves by twiddling dont forget to re-boot it or it will not see the new selection!
After 5000 RPM does it run thin, wispy, crackly and sharp (retarded) or heavy, lugging, vibration and sluggish to the feel of the throttle (too advanced)?
AL
See earlier post regarding the red light.
If you're using advance curve 5, its' not 'all in' until 5500 RPM (full advance delayed for high comp 2 valve motors) so using a strobe to set it means revving it past 5500!!
If you don't you wont see full advance as the distribution of advance per rev is much more accurate than standard set-up or using dyna 's' with standard advance and retard.
Not seeing full advance using a strobe (or other means) may lead you to set it with more advance than it really needs!
You can almost but not quite; simulate, a higher advance range by selecting advance curve 4 which is all in sooner, however youre problem is after 5000 so probably of little help.
If you change advance curves by twiddling dont forget to re-boot it or it will not see the new selection!
After 5000 RPM does it run thin, wispy, crackly and sharp (retarded) or heavy, lugging, vibration and sluggish to the feel of the throttle (too advanced)?
AL
1981 J1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests