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which Electronic Ignition?

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taylor88
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which Electronic Ignition?

#1 PostAuthor: taylor88 » Wed May 21, 2014 11:52 am

Hi all

I am considering upgrading my standard Z1B to an electronic ignition system but not sure which way to go. I want to replace the whole lot including coils. Research I have done so far points to at least three systems. I also like the idea of being able to remove the current original centrifugal ignition advance mechanism.

Dyna S (uses existing centrifugal advance I think)
Dyna 2000 computer programmable
Boyer Bransden Kit 00288

Any views welcome on what you have and why. Also are there any other systems out there?

cheers and thanks in advance
GTB

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nw66
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#2 PostAuthor: nw66 » Wed May 21, 2014 12:22 pm

Dyna S if its for a standard road bike , no point in using Dyna 2000 unless you want advance/retard and such. I have Dyna S on my Z and Gs1000 both very good and easy to fit :D
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taylor88
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#3 PostAuthor: taylor88 » Wed May 21, 2014 12:54 pm

nw66 wrote:Dyna S if its for a standard road bike , no point in using Dyna 2000 unless you want advance/retard and such. I have Dyna S on my Z and Gs1000 both very good and easy to fit :D


Thanks very much for prompt reply. Any views on the Boyer Bransden one? Am I correct that the Dyna s retains the mechanical centrifugal advance gubbins?
GTB

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nw66
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#4 PostAuthor: nw66 » Wed May 21, 2014 1:14 pm

don't really know anything about boyer, Dyna S I would go for only three wires easy to install. Suzuki performance spares have all the dyna range in stock and are good to deal with :D
Ducati 1199R Race

Ducati 1198R Race

Suzuki GS/GSXR1216 Turbo Drag

Suzuki Katana 1170 Homa sz

Yamaha R7/R1 motor

Kawasaki ZXR750R M1

KTM SXF250







The older it gets the faster it was :-))

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steve bowdler
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#5 PostAuthor: steve bowdler » Wed May 21, 2014 1:19 pm

Make sure your electrics are good , Dyna S does not like extra Voltage :cry:

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#6 PostAuthor: Mark Tiller » Wed May 21, 2014 1:32 pm

taylor88 wrote:
nw66 wrote:Dyna S if its for a standard road bike , no point in using Dyna 2000 unless you want advance/retard and such. I have Dyna S on my Z and Gs1000 both very good and easy to fit :D


Thanks very much for prompt reply. Any views on the Boyer Bransden one? Am I correct that the Dyna s retains the mechanical centrifugal advance gubbins?


yes the Dyna S uses the standard advance bob weights,

I have the Dyna s on mine with the coils and Taylor leads and can recommend it

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#7 PostAuthor: Pigford » Wed May 21, 2014 2:54 pm

Boyer works OK - but a bit less rugged as it has lots of "bitz & bobz" showing on a flimsy circuit board :??
Last edited by Pigford on Wed May 21, 2014 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#8 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Wed May 21, 2014 3:15 pm

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#9 PostAuthor: z2.john » Thu May 22, 2014 7:00 am

steve bowdler wrote:Make sure your electrics are good , Dyna S does not like extra Voltage :cry:

How very true. I have had 2 dyna's pass out on me. One had the 1/4 circuit fail and the other actually melted whilst riding with smoke billowing from the points cover.
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#10 PostAuthor: mick znone » Thu May 22, 2014 7:50 am

ive had the bransden s 2000 on mine for some time, blumin thing has never started :shock:
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Dyna S

#11 PostAuthor: taylor88 » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:22 pm

Thanks for your advice so far, I went ahead and bought the dyna s and some new Ignition coils and DW600 supressed ignition leads. on trying to fit coils, I have come across some of issue I would like to run past you as the instructions are not very good.
First issue is that the mounting 'core' of the dyna 3o ohm coils is thicker than the one currently fitted so the bolts are not long enough to re-mount them on the frame, I will buy some 45mm long 6mm thread and that will sort that.
Image

Second issue is the low tension wires one of them is only about 1mm away from the spacer. So I have put the earth wire in that position and hope it doesn't cause a problem, difficult to see on photo but look at the yellow / red wire
Image

Third issue is how to fit the connector on suppressed HT lead as it just seems a load of threads, do I strip it to the black core or to the threads and then just fold it back under the crimp?
Image

Any help greatly appreciated
GTB

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#12 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:27 pm

WATCH FOR THE LOW TENSION WIRE SCREW SHORTING ON THE MOUNTING POST :!: :!: :!: :!:
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#13 PostAuthor: taylor88 » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:58 pm

Hi Pigford

Yes that is one of the things I am concerned about. But apart from ensuring the low tension lead near the post is the earth wire so I am assuming it wont matter if it shorts, I could put some insulation tape around the post but neither seem an ideal solution to me?
GTB

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#14 PostAuthor: Mark Tiller » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:58 pm

Pigford wrote:WATCH FOR THE LOW TENSION WIRE SCREW SHORTING ON THE MOUNTING POST :!: :!: :!: :!:


Sits very close....I put insulation around the front post and smeared it with silicon grease to keep water out too

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#15 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:03 pm

Agree with Mark about the Lt shorting to the post i used a piece of heatshrink insulation on the post and covered the terminal with silicon,yes you do just fold the core back and crimp,have used the set up you have selected a few times and found to be very good make sure you set up with a strobe though :D
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