The front brakes on my Gpz1100B2 are in most circumstances absolutely fine. I have overhauled them, fitted new discs and pads and they work as intended.
However my right hand is in a bit of a mess (a crash years ago) and occasionally when I pull the lever hard it feels like I am being stabbed in the thumb joint which is not good and limits how quickly I can stop.
What I think I need is a set of calipers that are more powerful so I don't have to pull so hard on the lever. I have seen various bikes with Nissin 4 pots fitted, is this the way forward? Do I have to change the master cylinder as well and who can make me up some adapter brackets? Any other better ideas? I want to keep the original discs and not spend vast sums of cash.
Thanks in advance
Dave
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
which brakes?
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
What pads have you got Dave?
HH pads may be better for you, they helped mine out.
Then i changed to cast iron discs and that was a vast improvement.
Then i changed the calipers for ER6 ones and with HH pads they will stand it on its nose.
ER6 calipers are not exactly racing but they are double piston / single sided and that was what i needed them to be.
ER6 calipers need simple adapter plates made.
AL
HH pads may be better for you, they helped mine out.
Then i changed to cast iron discs and that was a vast improvement.
Then i changed the calipers for ER6 ones and with HH pads they will stand it on its nose.
ER6 calipers are not exactly racing but they are double piston / single sided and that was what i needed them to be.
ER6 calipers need simple adapter plates made.
AL
1981 J1
Hi Taffus
Are your PFM discs stainless or cast iron
Hi Al
I am running EBC stainless discs and HH pads. They work well enough, a vast improvement over the original (worn out) set up and quite effective when the brake lever is pulled hard, trouble is I cant always apply as much force as I want to. I will take a look at the ER-6 calipers.
Cheers
Dave
Are your PFM discs stainless or cast iron
Hi Al
I am running EBC stainless discs and HH pads. They work well enough, a vast improvement over the original (worn out) set up and quite effective when the brake lever is pulled hard, trouble is I cant always apply as much force as I want to. I will take a look at the ER-6 calipers.
Cheers
Dave
jimmock wrote:I get great results with these.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64464623@N05/8541359630/
Trust you to bring your CHOPPER into the conversation
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
pluto wrote:Hi Taffus
Are your PFM discs stainless or cast iron
Hi Al
I am running EBC stainless discs and HH pads. They work well enough, a vast improvement over the original (worn out) set up and quite effective when the brake lever is pulled hard, trouble is I cant always apply as much force as I want to. I will take a look at the ER-6 calipers.
Cheers
Dave
Cast iron
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
(='.'=)
(")_(")
-
Fred the Zed
- Custard Cream
- Posts: 735
- Joined: 28th Nov 2012
- Location: Sutton Coldfield
If you want to use less effort at the lever for the same braking power, whilst retaining the original look, I'd change the Master cylinder for one of a smaller bore. The important calculation is the surface area of the MC piston.
Smaller bore = more brake fluid pressure for the same effort at the lever. For an example, When I raced a Hornet 600, I swapped the standard 14mm bore MC for a 12.7mm bore MC off a Blackbird and the outcome was a great improvement. I could then outbrake every other Hornet out there. Another positive outcome is that you get a lot more 'feel' at the lever. A downside is that you get more lever travel, so dont go too radical. If you drop the bore size too far, then you wont push enough fluid through the lines to move the caliper pistons and the lever will come back to the bar, so aim to drop by a mm or so only.
Many riders seem to think that a rock hard brake lever that operates like a light switch means that their brakes are good. They aren't and this indicates that the MC is possibly oversized and the feel will be very wooden and lack feel. (Or you ride a Z1R like me with it daft Wallace and Grommit designed front brake)
Fred
Smaller bore = more brake fluid pressure for the same effort at the lever. For an example, When I raced a Hornet 600, I swapped the standard 14mm bore MC for a 12.7mm bore MC off a Blackbird and the outcome was a great improvement. I could then outbrake every other Hornet out there. Another positive outcome is that you get a lot more 'feel' at the lever. A downside is that you get more lever travel, so dont go too radical. If you drop the bore size too far, then you wont push enough fluid through the lines to move the caliper pistons and the lever will come back to the bar, so aim to drop by a mm or so only.
Many riders seem to think that a rock hard brake lever that operates like a light switch means that their brakes are good. They aren't and this indicates that the MC is possibly oversized and the feel will be very wooden and lack feel. (Or you ride a Z1R like me with it daft Wallace and Grommit designed front brake)
Fred
Last edited by Fred the Zed on Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Paid Up Member
I'm not advocating ER-6 calipers but for now they are fine.
They were brand new and a rush compromise at the time.
Because of the different cross sectional area of the ER-6 pistons,... with the standard 14mm master cylinder they give a "squeezing a brick" feel to the brake lever! May not be what you are looking for.
Really i need a smaller diameter master cylinder but all in good time.
I have now changed the front wheel and the discs again so have a pair of cast iron discs you could try if you want to see what that is like.
Loan basis only as they are on my alternate front wheel which i intend to use.
I have a pair of matching HH pads to go with them also which are bedded in,.. again to loan only over the summer if it helps. The pads in this case are for standard J or B calipers meaning yours or mine.
NB. *Cast iron discs and HH pads are not necessarily a good idea i understand.
The pads do 'weld' to the discs, discs also go very rusty and in wet conditions the difference between braking and locking the wheel is impossible to distinguish!!!!* Just so you know.
Brembo make full race and fast road pads for the ER-6 calipers and that is what i now have (race) but not tried them yet so cant comment, my replacement discs are ISR's from HPS.
AL
They were brand new and a rush compromise at the time.
Because of the different cross sectional area of the ER-6 pistons,... with the standard 14mm master cylinder they give a "squeezing a brick" feel to the brake lever! May not be what you are looking for.
Really i need a smaller diameter master cylinder but all in good time.
I have now changed the front wheel and the discs again so have a pair of cast iron discs you could try if you want to see what that is like.
Loan basis only as they are on my alternate front wheel which i intend to use.
I have a pair of matching HH pads to go with them also which are bedded in,.. again to loan only over the summer if it helps. The pads in this case are for standard J or B calipers meaning yours or mine.
NB. *Cast iron discs and HH pads are not necessarily a good idea i understand.
The pads do 'weld' to the discs, discs also go very rusty and in wet conditions the difference between braking and locking the wheel is impossible to distinguish!!!!* Just so you know.
Brembo make full race and fast road pads for the ER-6 calipers and that is what i now have (race) but not tried them yet so cant comment, my replacement discs are ISR's from HPS.
AL
1981 J1
I have just fitted Nissin 4 pot calipers along with a Daytona 675 radial master cylinder to my Z650. Getting the calipers spaced and set up centrally to the disc is a pain, but I am just about sorted now.
I picked the mounting brackets up from Ebay. They are OK but maybe a bit too heavy duty for my taste, I have looked for alternatives but not found anything yet. Webike list a range of caliper supports but the description and fitment detail is piss poor so I could not work out what was what.
I picked the mounting brackets up from Ebay. They are OK but maybe a bit too heavy duty for my taste, I have looked for alternatives but not found anything yet. Webike list a range of caliper supports but the description and fitment detail is piss poor so I could not work out what was what.
Why do I persist in debating with idiots ? I really should know better 
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests