Hello Guest User,

Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.

To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.

Recommendations Part 1. - Valve Lapping Tool

Need help restoring, building, or finding then try here.

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

Post Reply
Message
Author
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

Recommendations Part 1. - Valve Lapping Tool

#1 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:04 pm

Which brand would you recommend for price and longevity?
Top
User avatar
Ginger Bear
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 6850
Joined: 16th Dec 2008
Location: In the Dark.
Contact:
Contact Ginger Bear

#2 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:50 am

I have one of these.......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oscillating-V ... 2a2302d2c5

....... just go 'easy' with it.
Image

# 104

Phil Churchett Award Winner 2011 & 2016 :D
Buzzworkz Best Modified Zed 2016
Top
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

#3 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:14 am

Thanks GB :)
Top
User avatar
zed1015
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2319
Joined: 2nd Nov 2005
Location: Somewhere between Scunny and Goole.

#4 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:27 am

Rubber sucker on a stick .
Cheap, effective and there's no risk of going deeper than you need.
Top
User avatar
z1bman
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4227
Joined: 3rd Mar 2010
Location: WORDSLEY WEST MIDLANDS

#5 PostAuthor: z1bman » Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:43 am

zed1015 wrote:Rubber sucker on a stick .
Cheap, effective and there's no risk of going deeper than you need.


+1 i did have one of those orbital ones that you put in a drill about 25 years ago i could get on with it could never get it to stay on the valve more than a few seconds would rather use the traditional valve grinding stick :lol: :lol:
Top
User avatar
KeithZ1R
Moderator
Posts: 3368
Joined: 15th May 2005
Location: Bury

#6 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:52 am

zed1015 wrote:Rubber sucker on a stick .
Cheap, effective and there's no risk of going deeper than you need.




+1 no chance of buggering it up cos you get bored first :lol:
Keith
:bop :gom

You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety

I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was
mistaken.

Phil Churchett winner 2013
Top
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

#7 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 3:33 pm

zed1015 wrote:Rubber sucker on a stick .
Cheap, effective and there's no risk of going deeper than you need.

Thanks Rob, seeing as it's something I've never done before,
I think it's a wise option.
Now, a bit off topic, but could you please take a look at pic
of my KZ1000 head, I'd like your opinion on whether it can
be refurbished? Or would you recommend a good condition
one instead? I'm concerned about leak of compression... http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii23 ... 23d5a5.jpg

I've made a final decision on the lapping tool folks.
Thanks to Phil (zpower) and Rob (zed1015).
Top
User avatar
zed1015
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2319
Joined: 2nd Nov 2005
Location: Somewhere between Scunny and Goole.

#8 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:13 pm

The damage to your head is confined to the combustion chamber.
Just clean it up with some needle files and emery to ease off the high spots.
Ideally you should CC the head and adjust the others to match that one but in reality it won't do any harm unless there's a massive difference in volume.
Top
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

#9 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:20 pm

zed1015 wrote:The damage to your head is confined to the combustion chamber.
Just clean it up with some needle files and emery to ease off the high spots.
Ideally you should CC the head and adjust the others to match that one but in reality it won't do any harm unless there's a massive difference in volume.

I'll emery the high spots and see how it runs when
rebuilt. Phil (zpower) advised the same, just wanted a
second opinion. Thanks guys.
Top
User avatar
z1bman
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4227
Joined: 3rd Mar 2010
Location: WORDSLEY WEST MIDLANDS

#10 PostAuthor: z1bman » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:29 pm

are you going to check the pistons / bore & rings while you have the head removed ?
Top
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

#11 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:35 pm

z1bman wrote:are you going to check the pistons / bore & rings while you have the head removed ?

z1bman, I'll post a new thread...
Top
User avatar
Jay1969
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 4260
Joined: 26th Feb 2013
Location: East Midlands, England.
Contact:
Contact Jay1969

#12 PostAuthor: Jay1969 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 7:43 pm

Here - http://z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... highlight=
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Bike Help”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests