hydraulic clutch

[750steve]

I'd like to do that...........but it looks like it wouldn't work on a GPz 750 injun

[bob fell]

Ive just tried fitting my hydraulic clutch kit, what a nightmare it seems like the hose is too short. Any tips on how to do it or best way to route the cable

Bob

[z1000puddin]

Bob,
I used the same hole in the clutch cover as the cable went through.
I opened the hole out slightly & used a Venhill hose.
Z1000A1 with Falk hydraulic clutch.

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_-_Compon ... RHOSE_PLUS

I did have to cut my pushrod length down by 4mm
The hose run was exactly the same as the cable run.

Here is a pic, you may have to blow it up to see.



STU

[jimmock]

"it would make it easier to ride in heavy traffice etc and less stress on the wrist"

Just fit a longer lever!!

[chrisu]

we don't all have your wrist power............

[Pigford]

we don't all have your wrist power............

[bob fell]

Im still struggling with this, I got it all assembled but its not working, I put the bike in 1st and tried pushing it with the clutch on and off and the clutch seems engaged all the time does this mean I will have to fettle a few mm off the piston as it say`s in the instructions...I would have thought its the hole in the piston that needs to be drilled a couple off mm deeper? Also when I took the cover off again I tried pressing the lever and the piston doesnt seem to move so maybe I`ve not bled it enough, its difficult on my own but I have now bought a bleed kit.Also should the piston be flush with the face of the actuator

any advice appreciated, I will have another go tomorrow

Cheers Bob

[Z1parR]

I'm reading this with interest as i've just bought a slave cylinder off Falk ,
i havn't got my master cylinder yet , but when i do it looks like i'll be having some of this torment too

[Ginger Bear]

Bob,

If the piston doesn't move at all, it sounds like the system still contains air.

You may get a better result bleeding the thing if you raise the slave above the master cylinder. That way the air will travel to the bleed nipple a lot easier.

Make sure the piston moves properly before you re-fit the cover.

[Ginger Bear]

Geoff, just read your post.

I originally tried two seperate Brembo master cylinders (Ducati/Aprillia) & couldn't get 'em to work.
Switched to an item originally fitted to a Kawasaki & it bled up no problem.

[Z1parR]

Thanks Steve , i think zx7r is the route i'll go as it all has to work around the fairing .

[Pigford]

Any NEW & DRY hydraulic item can be a bitch to bleed - keep at it - try a syringe to force the fluid from the slave cylinder end

[ADRIAN H]

I bought one of these, as I got fed up of buggering about bleeding brakes. Worked a treat on my Hydraulic clutch. Up and running in no time.

http://www.toolbox.co.uk/sealey-vs402-v ... GoogleBase

Used ZX12 master cylinders, and a Hel brake line.

[z1000puddin]

The best way I have found for me when bleeding brakes or clutch.

Fill the reservoir.
Loosen the first banjo & pump the lever until fluid starts to come out at this first point.
Tighten up the first banjo.
Continue this until you follow the fluid all the way to the slave cylinder,tightening up each banjo connection as you go.
Then bleed the slave cylinder itself.
(Remember to keep the Fluid topped up:roll: )

Has worked for me 99.9% of the time.

Stu

[bob fell]

I managed to bleed it and the piston moves, its not that bad when you have the right gear, anyway when I refitted it all the clutch is still constantly engaged, I can put the bike in first and can push it freely.
I guess I have to shorten something as the instructions say this may happen and to shorten the piston by 3 - 5 mm a little at a time...to me it looks like the hole in the top of the piston should be made deeper as that`s where the push rod sits?? and did someone say they shortened their push rod??
Just thinking what`s the best way forward