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Sump Removal

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carpy
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Sump Removal

#1 PostAuthor: carpy » Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:10 pm

Does anyone one have any sneaky tips or tricks on how to remove the sump of my Z1000. All bolts (17) have been removed and the oil filter and the bugger just wont budge. Have been using a 2lb copper and hide to tap it all over for ages and now seriously @rsed off.

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z1bman
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#2 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:24 pm

if the engine is still in the frame it will be difficult to find a good angle to strike the sump to release it. + if it has not been removed in many years it will be a ba***rd to remove i would suggest striking the sump plug across the the same angle as the sump mating surface with a heavy bolster chisel dont be afraid of hitting it this is the strongest part of the casting + it might help with loosening your sump plug

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GUYZED
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#3 PostAuthor: GUYZED » Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:47 pm

z1bman wrote:if the engine is still in the frame it will be difficult to find a good angle to strike the sump to release it. + if it has not been removed in many years it will be a ba***rd to remove i would suggest striking the sump plug across the the same angle as the sump mating surface with a heavy bolster chisel dont be afraid of hitting it this is the strongest part of the casting + it might help with loosening your sump plug


Would you use the technique on a Z650 :?: ...as i've got to do mine soon.
OLD ZED'S NEVER DIE THEY JUST GO FASTER...
#449
Z1000A2 Z650B1

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z1bman
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#4 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:41 pm

GUYZED wrote:
z1bman wrote:if the engine is still in the frame it will be difficult to find a good angle to strike the sump to release it. + if it has not been removed in many years it will be a ba***rd to remove i would suggest striking the sump plug across the the same angle as the sump mating surface with a heavy bolster chisel dont be afraid of hitting it this is the strongest part of the casting + it might help with loosening your sump plug


Would you use the technique on a Z650 :?: ...as i've got to do mine soon.



YES IF YOUR ENGINE IS STILL IN THE FRAME YOU ARE LIMITED TO STRIKING ONLY THE FRONT PART OF THE SUMP IN MY EXPERIENCE I HAVE NEVER COME ACROSS A SUMP BOLT THAT WAS SO TIGHT THAT I HAD TO REMOVE THE SUMP. BUT UNLESS YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB YOU ARE PROBABLY GOING TO HAVE TO DO THIS

carpy
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#5 PostAuthor: carpy » Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:31 pm

Well done z1bman, top help. I had actually already removed the sump plug so I screwed it back in. Using an old socket extension and my lump hammer gave it a good few smacks and the sump loosened. The gauze filter was quite clean with very few particles but the sump was full of thick goo and unfortunately there was quite a bit of debris. Metal shavings, some plastic tubing, broken bits of metal (very light alloy) and a small rubber block :shock: When I've cleaned them up properly I'll post some piccies and see if anyone can shed any light.

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Pigford
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#6 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:06 pm

Odds on its the cam guide that fixes in the barrel cam chain tunnel - and possibly a cam chain wheel - the cam chain may have been rubbing on the barrels :??
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!


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