but when up to temperature all seams to settle down.will this settle down when all is bedded in or do i need to investigate
has any one got any thoughts on this.
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engine a bit rattly[SORTED]
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
engine a bit rattly[SORTED]
Ive just rebuilt the top end.When its cold it sounds like a bag of bolt
but when up to temperature all seams to settle down.will this settle down when all is bedded in or do i need to investigate
has any one got any thoughts on this.
but when up to temperature all seams to settle down.will this settle down when all is bedded in or do i need to investigate
has any one got any thoughts on this.
Last edited by zman on Wed May 02, 2012 3:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
keep thoses wheels turning
Hi Mate
It shouldn't sound like a bag of bolts after a rebuild. Was this noise there at all before the rebuild?
Can you get a video clip onto youtube or get a member nearby to have a listen for you?
Are the carbs fairly balanced and do you get reasonable hot compression readings and similar plug colours across the four?
Does the bad sound seem to come from top or bottom of the engine and any particular side?? I believe you can use a metal rod to your ear if you don't have a mechanics stethoscope to borrow.
Fingers crossed it's nowt major - from Mark
It shouldn't sound like a bag of bolts after a rebuild. Was this noise there at all before the rebuild?
Can you get a video clip onto youtube or get a member nearby to have a listen for you?
Are the carbs fairly balanced and do you get reasonable hot compression readings and similar plug colours across the four?
Does the bad sound seem to come from top or bottom of the engine and any particular side?? I believe you can use a metal rod to your ear if you don't have a mechanics stethoscope to borrow.
Fingers crossed it's nowt major - from Mark
Z1-R D1, Z650 B2, Z1-B & ZRX 1200 A1P Catch 'em if you can at www.Zedrider.co.uk
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It was cam chain tensioner.
the bolt that locks the sprung arm into place was almost stripped.So the rod was moving.helicoiled thread and now sorted.
after getting the shims is it likly they will have to be changed again after first run
Thanks for your help
the bolt that locks the sprung arm into place was almost stripped.So the rod was moving.helicoiled thread and now sorted.
after getting the shims is it likly they will have to be changed again after first run
Thanks for your help
keep thoses wheels turning
I always run my engines up after a build with the cam cover held on with just a few bolts.
Then leave overnight, re-torque the head and re-check the shims cold.
They usually don't move much but running the motor does allow everything to settle especially if new valves etc have been fitted..
I would double check the cam timing anyway if the tensioner was loose to be 100% the chain hasn't jumped a tooth.
I just had a head in with 8 bent valves from exactly the same tensioner fault.
Then leave overnight, re-torque the head and re-check the shims cold.
They usually don't move much but running the motor does allow everything to settle especially if new valves etc have been fitted..
I would double check the cam timing anyway if the tensioner was loose to be 100% the chain hasn't jumped a tooth.
I just had a head in with 8 bent valves from exactly the same tensioner fault.
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