starter switch problem

[bigalhudson]

Tried to fire up my Z1000A1 today after its been sitting for for a month.

Turned over on the switch first try no problem then nothing. Ignition has volts and the bike started up fine after bridging the studs on the solenoid. Have got no volts at the starter button with the ignition on,power is fine everywhere else.

Where does the black feed to the starter switch originate from?
Solenoid problem possibly? Ive ordered a new solenoid anyway as I broke it trying to dismantle it.

Any Ideas out there ?

Cheers Al

[CAT3]

If it's the same as the Z900 the black wire from the starter solenoid goes to one side of the start button.
The other side of the start button goes to the START/STOP switch & then out of that switch on a brown wire. That is the ignition feed.
The brown goes to the ignition switch, then out of the ignition switch on a white to the battery.
Hope that's of help.

[tlc]

Al. The black wire goes into a black from the lockout switch in the clutch perch. This would ordinarily feed to the loom under the tank. The other black from said perch goes into the main loom under the tank.
I`m having trouble making this read sensibly.
You can safely bypass this.

[bigalhudson]

Al. The black wire goes into a black from the lockout switch in the clutch perch. This would ordinarily feed to the loom under the tank. The other black from said perch goes into the main loom under the tank.
I`m having trouble making this read sensibly.
You can safely bypass this.

'lockout switch in the clutch perch'
Not sure what this is. Could you explaine, 'lockout switch' and 'clutch perch'

Also would problems with the solenoid lead to no volts at the starter button ?, or am I looking at a fault in the loom/ ignition switch/lockout switch and clutch perch (when I understand what that is)

Thanks Al

[Pigford]

Surely, the Z1000A1 doesn't have any safety cut out gizzmo's

[bigalhudson]

Surely, the Z1000A1 doesn't have any safety cut out gizzmo's

Presuming this would be cant start unless your in neutral or have the clutch pulled in. Agree that I don't think I have this .

[tlc]

There are no volts at your black wire because it is an earth wire.
There is a plunger type switch within the clutch lever stock which completes the circuit when disengaged.
The starter solenoid is wired permanent live with the breaks being in the earth side. One for the lockout and one for the start button.

Does it start if you kick it over ?

[bigalhudson]

Many thanks

Will have a look at the clutch lever wiring tomorrow and try kicking over. As I've said starts fine on bridging the solenoid but I've now fucked the switch wiring in the solenoid by trying to dismantle it. Waiting on Z power for new solenoid.

[CAT3]

Are you sure the black wire is an earth ?
The start button should be switching a +12v to the starter solenoid, it only becomes an earth once it has passed through the coil of the solenoid.

[Big Fluff]

What TLC is saying is that the black wire will ground when the circuit is complete.
Study the circuit below.
Make sure you have 12v+ at the brown wire as it enters the RH switchgear.
With the kill switch in the 'Run' position, you should have 12v+ at the Red/Yellow wire going to the coils.
With the kill switch in the 'Run' position, press the starter button and make sure you have 12v+ at the end of the Black wire at the starter relay (solenoid).
Note that on some models the black wire may go over to the LH switchgear to the clutch lockout switch. If there is a clutch lockout switch fitted then the clutch must be pulled in to allow the 12v+ to pass through.
If you have 12v+ at the end of the Black wire, then make sure that the Black/Yellow earth wire is intact and has a very good ground.
If everything checks out as described this far, then your starter relay is goosed.

Will

[bigalhudson]

Thanks all.
Pretty sure I've got my head round this now.
Can't believe how much wiring there is up to the controls and just generally up to the switchgear.
Once I've got the new starter relay/ solenoid I will methodically chase the problem down.
Looking in my Haynes today it does show a starter lockout switch fitted to KZ 1000 A1/2, and I know it was a USA import, A1 engine with probably an A2 frame, as it's been put together. Clutch lever is separated from the left hand switch gear so no starter lockout switch is obvious. Z1 loom possibly?
I've already had problems with the run/stop switch internals so am thinking I need to refurb all the ignition/start switching. Solenoid was probably fine but to late now.

Thanks again
Al

[bigalhudson]

Also Will,

Great diagram. Thanks for the effort

Al